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2005 cobalt key won’t turn for ignition

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  • #665390
    BrianBrian
    Participant

      I have a friend with a 2005 chevy cobalt, 4 door auto with the ecotec engine. He has 2 keys, but neither will turn at all. The steering wheel is locked, but even if I hang on one side of the wheel to relieve pressure it still wont turn over. Occasionally there is a light that will flash with the symbol of a car with a padlock on it. Anyone have any ideas? It was hard to start a few times, but now after a few days it is just stuck. I also checked recalls at GM, there are none for this. I checked because another friend with a 2007 impala had a recall for their lock cylinder. Please help!

    Viewing 10 replies - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)
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    • #665409
      Andrew PhillipsAndrew Phillips
      Participant

        Try disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes and reconnecting the battery. There is a recall for these vehicles also.

        http://www.gmignitionupdate.com/product/public/us/en/GMIgnitionUpdate/overview.html

        #665412
        zerozero
        Participant

          [quote=”cap269″ post=138198]Try disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes and reconnecting the battery. There is a recall for these vehicles also.[/quote]

          Disconnecting the battery will do nothing, the ignition cylinders on all gms of that era were horrible for failing. At this point it pretty much has to be towed somewhere, if I remember correctly this type of cylinder has to be rotated to be removed. However on some models there is a solenoid pin related to the shift interlock that can break if forced so there is a chance that if it was having difficulty turning and was forced, that pin may be jamming the cylinder.

          #665417
          Andrew PhillipsAndrew Phillips
          Participant

            [quote=”DaFirnz” post=138201]Disconnecting the battery will do nothing[/quote]
            Incorrect. The original post indicated the security light was flashing indicating the VTD activated. The battery needs to be pulled to reset the flag. Also, the ignition switch has to be replaced by the dealer in order to reprogram the PassLock system.

            VEHICLE THEFT DETERRENT (VTD) DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION

            CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION

            The Passlock(TM) system is provided in order to prevent vehicle theft if the ignition lock cylinder is forced to rotate. The Passlock controller reads the coded Passlock(TM) data signal. The data consists of a voltage generated by a voltage divider network created between the Passlock assembly and the Passlock(TM) controller. If the data is correct, indicating rotation of the lock cylinder with the proper mechanically cut key, then the Passlock(TM) controller sends a password to the Powertrain controller over the class 2 bus to indicate that starter engagement should be allowed. The Passlock(TM) controller also interfaces with the driver displays subsystem to indicate, via a Security telltale, the Passlock(TM) subsystem’s status and acute subsystem failures.

            The components of the Passlock(TM) System are as follows:
            The ignition switch
            The body control module (BCM)
            The security indicator on the instrument cluster
            The engine control module (ECM)
            Ignition Switch
            The ignition switch contains the wiring and electrical switching portion of the column mounted ignition assembly. The ignition switch includes wiring pigtails which connect it to the base of column connector, the Passlock(TM) Sensor is an internal resistor inside the ignition switch.

            HANGING THE PASSLOCK(TM) COMPONENTS
            The following components contain codes or passwords, or must learn codes or passwords for the Passlock(TM) system to allow the vehicle to start:
            The ignition switch
            BCM
            ECM
            If any of these parts are replaced, a learn procedure must be performed. Refer to Programming Theft Deterrent System Components. If parts are replaced and a learn procedure is not performed, the engine will not crank.

            #665901
            BrianBrian
            Participant

              Here is an update. After removing the cover around the column and under it, I discovered that my friend had been sold this car without knowing it had been stolen and wrecked. the wires leading to the ignition key had different colored wires patched in, and some looked burnt. I did various tests, they all were at least connected in the correct spots and insulated sufficiently.
              The steering column is surprisingly easy to remove. After the electrical was disconnected, the two vertical bolts came out, then three horizontal screws came out around the middle of the column. It all slipped off a splined shaft and it only took 5 minutes to remove completely.
              I took that to the dealership that sold him this car, found out there is a recall on the ignition switch and they failed to give him a key fob as well. I convinced them to remedy the key fob situation. The tech simply tapped on the end of the key lightly with a hammer, then it turned. It works for a few turns then has to be tapped on again. I’m told that will be remedied soon. The column went back in easily and the car now starts. Very strange.

              #665902
              Andrew PhillipsAndrew Phillips
              Participant

                Sorry to hear that your friend bought a car without full disclosure. That sucks. On the other hand, it’s good that the dealership seems like they will help. I mentioned before that there was a recall on these (in my first reply). Glad they are taking care of that.

                #665906
                BrianBrian
                Participant

                  The annoying thing about this, is that this is the largest chain of new and used car lots in my area. They love to go on about how something has a clean Carfax.
                  The thing is, after doing auto body for more than a few years, I can spot a phoney. I also did some salvage rebuilds – both correctly and legally. I have been chased off their lot before for pointing out that the latest thing with the clean car fax has indeed been previously totaled. I’ve even offered to go to the auctions they buy from to try and steer them in the right direction so they can come back to home base and sell something honest, that only made them angrier.
                  At least for my friends sake, when I went there with him and they layer a lot of double talk on us, I made them trip over their words when I threw all that and tons more back at them. They would stop talking, ring their body shop and service department and the head of sales department to come in and verify what I corrected them on. In all cases they had to eat crow and were calmly deflated afterward. Its good to know what I know and use it for good and all in a calm voice that makes the crooks question the very bones of their reality. I only wished I could have recorded it all. Would have made great TV or something.

                  #665907
                  Andrew PhillipsAndrew Phillips
                  Participant

                    [quote=”peshewa” post=138692]I only wished I could have recorded it all. Would have made great TV or something.[/quote]
                    LOL. I would have enjoyed watching that for sure. Don’t even get me started on Carfax. The thing is Carfax only gets information from the state DMVs and insurance companies. It often happens that a car is in a wreck and should be totalled, but instead of filing an insurance claim, they want to keep and fix the car themselves, or by a shop that doesn’t do it legally. Therefore the work is usually shoddy, the title is not branded salvage or rebuilt, and there is no info that makes it up the ladder to Carfax. Later on, this car “with a clean Carfax report” gets sold and shuffled through the used car business until someone like your friend ends up with it and situations just like this are discovered.

                    #665972
                    zerozero
                    Participant

                      Some of the GM passlock versions can be reset when faulted by leaving the key on engine off for 10 minutes (approx) until the light turns off. It’s not a procedure for learning keys, it’s simply to reset the system.

                      #665975
                      Andrew PhillipsAndrew Phillips
                      Participant

                        [quote=”DaFirnz” post=138758]Some of the GM passlock versions can be reset when faulted by leaving the key on engine off for 10 minutes (approx) until the light turns off. It’s not a procedure for learning keys, it’s simply to reset the system.[/quote]
                        But the key wouldn’t turn in the OP’s case here.

                        #665992
                        EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
                        Keymaster

                          Thanks for the updates. That’s a strange one, but not uncommon in my experience. I too and not a fan of Carfax. It’s a marketing ploy that often gets exploited. Nice to know you were able to figure out the ignition switch problem though. Thanks again and keep us updated of any new developments.

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