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good vid there Eric, I take it previous person didn`t have car on level ground when refilling front diff, judging by the amount of oil running out of the filler hole !
In my experience that’s typical. You want to see a little fluid run out when you remove the plug. In fact I wonder if the fluid had ever been changed in the front and rear differentials.
You have to be careful mixing drive adapters with breaker bars. The size of the drive is often proportional to the amount of torque the bar can produce. Too much torque will destroy adapters.
In my case, I snapped one and bent another 1/4″ to 3/8″ adapter when I had to use a breaker bar to get out the drain plug when I did an oil change on my van. I ultimately had to go up a size to get a socket with a 3/8 drive, which trashed the plug (good thing I bought a fresh magnet plug for it). The last guy to do the change must have used an impact… pulling the filter was the same deal (it took the breaker bar to remove it).
Just a little note with determining if the diff is an LSD or not: the spinning of the wheels is usually foolproof, ie: if they rotate the same way, it’s an LSD or if they spin in the opposite direction or not at all, it’s a standard diff as mentioned in the video. HOWEVER, some cars like the JZA80 Supra came out with a Torsen Limited Slip Differential. Torsen standing for TORQUE-SENSING, these differentials act like a standard diff when they are unloaded and LS when loaded. So if a vehicle is fitted with a torsen LSD, when the wheels are off the ground and you spin one of the wheels, the other will spin in the opposite direction, leading you to believe that it is a standard diff.
I’ve heard of people having a bit of trouble with this when trying to get going from a stop when one wheel is on tarmac and the other is on gravel/loose dirt. Because there is not enough load on both of the wheels due to the gravel/lose dirt, only one wheel will spin and the vehicle won’t go anywhere. So a little trick with this is, if you find yourself in this predicament, put your handbrake/E-brake on 2 or 3 clicks, depending how tight it is and this will give the wheels enough load to transfer drive to both wheels instead of just the slipping one and allow you to drive off.
Hope this info was helpful
[quote=”ratdude747″ post=41331]You have to be careful mixing drive adapters with breaker bars. The size of the drive is often proportional to the amount of torque the bar can produce. Too much torque will destroy adapters.
In my case, I snapped one and bent another 1/4″ to 3/8″ adapter when I had to use a breaker bar to get out the drain plug when I did an oil change on my van. I ultimately had to go up a size to get a socket with a 3/8 drive, which trashed the plug (good thing I bought a fresh magnet plug for it). The last guy to do the change must have used an impact… pulling the filter was the same deal (it took the breaker bar to remove it).[/quote]
Yea no kidding. That’s why I have 3 1/2 to 3/8 adapters in my tool box. 🙂 Since I didn’t have a 1/2 drive allen socket I really didn’t have a choice though.
[quote=”rambo1369″ post=41352]Just a little note with determining if the diff is an LSD or not: the spinning of the wheels is usually foolproof, ie: if they rotate the same way, it’s an LSD or if they spin in the opposite direction or not at all, it’s a standard diff as mentioned in the video. HOWEVER, some cars like the JZA80 Supra came out with a Torsen Limited Slip Differential. Torsen standing for TORQUE-SENSING, these differentials act like a standard diff when they are unloaded and LS when loaded. So if a vehicle is fitted with a torsen LSD, when the wheels are off the ground and you spin one of the wheels, the other will spin in the opposite direction, leading you to believe that it is a standard diff.
I’ve heard of people having a bit of trouble with this when trying to get going from a stop when one wheel is on tarmac and the other is on gravel/loose dirt. Because there is not enough load on both of the wheels due to the gravel/lose dirt, only one wheel will spin and the vehicle won’t go anywhere. So a little trick with this is, if you find yourself in this predicament, put your handbrake/E-brake on 2 or 3 clicks, depending how tight it is and this will give the wheels enough load to transfer drive to both wheels instead of just the slipping one and allow you to drive off.
Hope this info was helpful[/quote]
A valid point to be sure but the only place I’ve seen that type of differential is in a performance application. Given that and that I was presenting ‘general’ information I feel comfortable leaving that out. As I said you do make a valid point.
It likely has never been changed. A lot of people don’t even know what a differential or a transfer case is or the fact that they have them on their vehicle. Just curious, how often have y’all seen a differential fail due to lack of maintenance?
[quote=”lechevalfou” post=41686]It likely has never been changed. A lot of people don’t even know what a differential or a transfer case is or the fact that they have them on their vehicle. Just curious, how often have y’all seen a differential fail due to lack of maintenance?[/quote]
About 3 times I can think of. In fairness that was because the fluid had been drained and never refilled.
I have a couple questions. what is the fitting on the end of the grease gun called and i cant find what type of grease a 99 jeep Cherokee 4wd would uses, or does it matter? if not what type of grease is normally used for this sorta thing.
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