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Hello all, I’m curious to hear some opinions on how to go about doing this.
My 2004 Toyota 4Runner RWD 4.0L came up with a dreaded P0430 code today after my “Check Engine” light came on. After taking it to the shop and looking at it myself, it looks like the bank 2 catalytic converter is beginning to fail. I made sure that the O2 and A/F sensors weren’t the problem, so now I’m looking at replacing the converter. I’ve selected a decent aftermarket direct fit exhaust manifold from Davico after seeing some promising feedback on it, so now I’m entering the “Can I actually do this?” phase of the repair.
I’m just curious how doable this repair is at home? I’ve been looking through my repair manual (removal of front exhaust pipe/assembly), and, as always, things seem pretty straightforward on paper, but I anticipate there are some additional steps that need considering. I guess I’m just wondering if this repair is going to require me to raise or lower my engine, or anything to that extent? I’d like to think I’m pretty handy…but maybe not that handy.
Also, I’m aware that sometimes these catalytic converters involve welding and fitting, but I’m hoping to avoid that issue by going with a direct fit. I’m no welder, that’s for sure.
Any advice or tips on doing this? Is it even possible for me to do this without moving my engine around?
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I can not say if you’ll need to move the engine, but if you do, assuming the vehicle is on jack stands a block of wood and floor jack will do the trick one the motor mounts are unbolted if needed.
As to any tips …
Your up against 17 years of rust build up.
I suggest lots of penetrating oil.
A good torch
Six point sockets
Perhaps a grinder and cut off wheels
Also take your time!!! it’s too easy to strip / snap rusted fasteners.
Might also look at YT videos on how to loosen rusted exhaust fasteners.I have replaced cats on 3 vehicles in my life. Each time, I spent the time and chose a reputable brand, with good feedback. Each time, the cat went bad again within a year or two, and the code would come back. The cheaper cats are cheaper for a reason, and are almost worthless at a scrap yard compared to OEM for a reason. The Honda odyssey I removed the cat from fetched me over $200 at the scrap yard. The replacement that I replaced on it a year or two later, $20. This time I just cut it off and placed a pipe in it’s place. It’s an 03 model, and I hate to do that. However, The emissions even with the reputable replacement wasn’t even close to what it should have been and this van is going to the heap soon anyway.
Every time, I check and make sure it’s not burning oil, coolant, or any other type of thing that will damage the new cat before putting it in.
Anytime I did this, it was always a 10+ year old car, I always needed a grinder, the bolts always snapped or were rusted to pieces.
Usually, I just ended up
A: Cutting out the bad one, and welding in the new one
B: Cut out the bad one, and clamp the new oneJust depends on the location, and the value of the car to me.
If you have to remove the manifold, or do anything like that, if it were me, I’m either not doing it, or taking it to a shop. Every attempt at that has resulted in having to replace much more than just the CAT/exhaust. Usually the header is all rusted, and bolts need drilled and tapped when the break off, etc.
It’s a fun project, but don’t do it unless you have another ride is all I’m saying 🙂
I know in the future, I’m just going to deal with the code unless it’s giving me performance issues, Especially if it’s an older car unless it’s worth replacing it with an OEM cat.
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