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2004 Pt Cruiser cooling system…

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  • #846967
    Rowdy GrosRowdy Gros
    Participant

      I recently had a GUY change my transmission and when it came back the top of the radiator was cracked. I bought a new radiator and installed it. Easy enough. But, I failed to use the bleeder valve when filling. as a result on my first long drive, 10 miles or so,when I stopped the engine water bubbled out of the resevoir. I made it back home however the gage never showed an hi temp. I checked you tube and saw a video of troubleshooting cooling system for my make and model. Thats wehere I saw about the bleeder. So this morning I opened the bleeder, pnched resevoir hose and filled radiator till air was gone. Not much air came out. After observing, what happens now is after running for a while at proper temp. water GURGGLES into the resevoir, the fan comes on and the water soon stops GURGGLING. Water runs out of resevoir to the point that eventually I am low on water. HOWEVER my temp gage never rises.Does my car have a two speed fan and is one of them not working preventing the system from properly cooling? What the hell is going on? do I need to bleed a couple of times? THis is my only form of transportation and I am STUCK!

    Viewing 11 replies - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)
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    • #846982
      Andrew PhillipsAndrew Phillips
      Participant

        Sounds to me like air is/was still in the cooling system. Bleeding should be done once the engine is warm enough to open the thermostat, and with the heater on, to make sure there is full flow and avoid trapped air pockets.

        #847003
        JonJon
        Participant

          Not sure about the fan in the first gen PT’s but my 2007 had 2 fan speeds iirc.

          I would do as mentioned above and bleed the cooking system. I used to do this with the radiator cap off. Now I use the yellow spill free funnel as seen in the bleed cooling system video.

          Also might not hurt to get a new radiator cap.

          #847479
          Rowdy GrosRowdy Gros
          Participant

            Ok, I bled the system, what is happening now is when I ride at 35 or 40 it holds temp. but barely. When I increase speed it immediately heats up. Blows back out of reservoir. New cap, New thermostat…..Is my pump worn enough so that it shows circulation when idling but fails to keep up at high speeds. OR do I have a blown head gasket allowing combustion into water jacket? Hoses appear good. did not have this problem prior to this guy changing my tranny. He did a shitty job. loose ball joints, plugs not plugged in etc. it has 194 thousand miles on it. I have been having it since it was new. Changed oil every three to four thousand miles.

            #847497
            JustinJustin
            Participant

              Had the same issue with a Mitsubishi Galant a few months ago after replacing the radiator. You should continue to bleed the system…it can take time to get air out of them.

              I doubt you have a head gasket issue…do you have oil in your coolant? Blowing smoke out your exhaust?

              #847510
              BrianBrian
              Participant

                Are you sure the thermostat was installed in the correct direction? Keep in mind that if the remote resivior is overfilled, the excess will be pushed out as pressure increases. As the temp rises, the heat expanded coolant gurgles into the overflow aka remote resivior. As it cools off after you park it, the coolant contracts, creating a vacuum, drawing the coolant back into the radiator.

                #847523
                Rowdy GrosRowdy Gros
                Participant

                  OK here is what I did this morning. I opened the radiator, filled with water. Opened the bleeder so water could come out. Started the motor and noticed some movement in the water. As I slightly reved the level would subside. Ran until the thermostat opened. got air out. by the way it burns like hell when the water runs down the wrench.Added water as I was bleeding. Reservoir was at adequate level. went to highway where I ran at about 40 or 50 mph. for 30 or 40 minutes stopping occasionally to check. No gurggling or increase. Then after about 15 miles and 40 minutes or so the needle rises. Comes down. Then rises more. So I start heading home. By the time i get home, about 2 miles, I am almost red lined and the water is coming out of reservoir. i am going to continue to bleed. Cant afford another car. got laid off in September. Oil prices low. Put me outta work. THANK YOU GUYS SOOO MUCH FOR YOUR INPUT! If I had head gasket issues it should run very poorly? i mean its a PT, it already runs rough but has since i bought it new.Oh and God bless and happy Holidays….question….is the sensor that controls my gage the same one that talks to the PCM to tell my fan to come on?

                  #847534
                  Rowdy GrosRowdy Gros
                  Participant

                    Two speed fan is for Turbo……..Thanks

                    #847622
                    Rowdy GrosRowdy Gros
                    Participant

                      o.K. people, it’s official……..BLOWN HEAD GASKET……..THE JACKASS That changed my transmisswion must have ‘hot rodded” the thing while test driving………..needless to say me and my boys are going to give him a BAT PARTY! Thanks to everyone who helped peace and be safe

                      #847661
                      BrianBrian
                      Participant

                        I won’t defend a repair that I wasn’t present for, but I should add something important. Pt cruiser is a neon with a different body on it. Neons are notorious for blowing head gaskets with little effort. I would even say that of all the neons I’ve done work on, over half of them had blown head gaskets at no fault of the owner. If I could impart some saged advice, don’t buy anything from Chrysler Jeep or Dodge. Plenty who own those will say how great they are, bit they are among the few. The worst transmissions made, kinky electrical systems and super sketchy reliability. Not the easiest things to work on either. Still not as God awful as everything by Saturn, but not by much. Go to the individual forums for cars made by them, and read the common issues that owners face.
                        Not only that, but you can end up in a real bad spot seeking revenge in the eyes of the law.

                        #847663
                        zerozero
                        Participant

                          I personally witnessed a Sebring that had it’s rad cap replaced, it had failed and wasn’t building pressure, and proceeded to blow the head gasket the next week.

                          It was likely just holding on and when the component(s) was replaced and the system came up to operating pressure the poor head gasket just couldn’t take it.

                          Considering the age, seriously look into getting an engine from a recycler. By the time you pay the labour on a head gasket, you can probably just change the whole engine. You could also save some future effort by changing the timing belt and related components outside of the car.
                          car-part.com

                          #847832
                          Rowdy GrosRowdy Gros
                          Participant

                            Thank you for the advice. I appreciate it. Ended up using K&W Fiberlock head gasket sealer. Worked almost immediately. If I could include a pic you would see where they either closed the hood with something in it or leaned on the spout causing the top of radiator to crack. Then when he pulls my car into my driveway, it was overheating terribly. No doubt in my mind he caused it. However, sometimes the devil gets the best of us. Thank you again and God Bless…..

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