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Hello All,
Scratching my head here. First off, don’t buy Nissan, it’s not what it used to be. This (V42) Quest would crank but not start (not even a little). So air, fuel, and spark right?
Fuel pump operates (can’t measure the pressure, need special “Nissan” adapter), and has a good size stream when ignition is turned on. Injectors are not clogged, checked each one, clean as a whistle (pressurized and applied 12 volts manually). Injectors are firing, not really safe to plug them all in and crank the engine though, so I simply used a circuit tester light and checked for voltage at each injector plug while someone cranked…light blinked for each injector plug.
Sparks are firing, pulled each plug and had a spark on all.
I checked the engine, both Cams rotate. I checked the suction at the manifold (with my hand), and each cylinder pulled pretty well. Didn’t have a compression tester, so for now stuffed a paper towel into each spark hole, which would then catapult during cranking (Yes, scientific…I know..).
So that really leaves one item, air. First I will grab a compression tester and confirm engine is still worth the trouble. But next, what could be the problem? I do not see an IAC valve anywhere… did Nissan reinvent the wheel? I was thinking maybe the electronic throttle control stopped working, and serves as both… When I cranked the engine (before disassembly 🙂 ) it would turn over, and maybe felt like it had a power stroke here or there, but never tried to start.
Suggestions welcome! Again: Have Spark, Have Fuel, Engine Turns over, Compression probably ok(will confirm tomorrow), but still no start. Thank you!
P.S. I’ll back up my claim to not buying Nissan…at least not a Quest. I drive a 99 Altima and love it, but somewhere in the early 2002 they decided to turn downhill. So… 1st No fuel filter, and if you want clean the sock or replace the pump, well get ready to drop the tank. 2nd No easy way to replace spark plugs/injectors/or diagnose… want to check compression on #2? Get ready to bruise all your knuckles getting the intake collector off the manifold in the tightest space ever conceived (you have to disconnect rear hoses by “feel” since you’ll be hugging the engine with both arms and your face against the hood weatherstripping. Should I keep going? Oh yeah, cheap plastics everywhere…. 90’s Hondas and Nissans had much higher quality. Want to replace a drivebelt? Hehe, GOOD LUCK. Basically, Nissan decided people shouldn’t work on cars themselves, and their business plan is to charge you for top end disassembly to replace spark plugs… You decide!
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Have you checked for any stored codes? usually a noid light is used
to read injector pulse. A test light the bulb wattage is to high. If
spark is there. are the plugs wet with fuel? try spraying some starter
fluid in the intake or a vac line to the intake.Before I started there were no codes and all the monitors were ready. Front sparks were wet with fuel, but by the time I reached the rear ones they were dry. The spark plugs were pretty fouled up however… Don’t think they’ve ever been replaced due to the design (and work involved).
I’ll check compression, replace sparks, and then reassemble everything and try what you suggested. Thanks!
UPDATE: It looks like the problem was the old spark plugs. Interesting that the change interval is 105K and the car is 155K. I also cleaned the collector and throttle body while I was at it, and checked the injectors. Most cylinders were 175-188 PSI while one was 160, so the engine is not completely ruined yet (the electrode on the low cyl was round :ohmy: ).
Now I get the P0507, Idle RPM higher than normal code, thinking I just have to do the idle relearn, otherwise I’ve created an intake leak.
Never thought that someone could drive a car until it won’t even start because of worn plugs…I mean they must’ve gone through terrible performance phase, misfire phase, no? Or are these computer ignition systems that good to compensate for stupidity?
Yep, that’ll do it. Just be sure you used the same NGK’s that likely came out of there. Just to be sure they operate properly for the next 155K or 105K as the manual suggests.
One of the first things I often suggest with problems like this is to check the basics. I’m glad you found an easy solution before you get in too deep.
Thanks for the update and for using the ETCG forum.
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