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My sons car won’t crank – It’s most likely either the starter or the Neutral Safety Switch I’m guessing at this point – I have not looked at it.
He is about 100 miles away.Also, the front wheels will be off the ground – so the vehicle will not be able to move just in case the transmission is in drive
and the neutral safety switch IS working!Assuming the battery is ok – in order to test the starter I would?
1. have someone turn key to crank position
2. apply 12v from battery directly to solenoid post – assuming I get 12v at the main post as well (that it is connected to the + battery,
otherwise I’ll need to track down that issue first)If it starts – i’m looking at something in the NSS system – Until we can get the car back home (late August) I was thinking of putting
in a bypass switch. + of battery to switch (momentary) and then back to the solenoid.
Two questions…
1. What gauge wire should I use? (solenoid only)
2. should I put an inline fuse on it and what rating? (10amp?)If it doesn’t start – then I’ll have to verify
Thanks
GG
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Here is what I suggest. check for 12v at the starter when cranked. If 12v is seen and no starter
starter is suspect. If no 12v is seen move back to the starter relay. check that power is there for the
coil and the relay pulls in. Also check any fuses are not blown and the battery is good.http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-no-start-problems
I didn’t really think about fuses. Which fuse system would stop the starter from cranking? I didn’t think the starter was fused.
Any particular system for the neutral safety system? He said all the lights look normal when you turn the key, it just doesn’t crank
no noise at all. Doesn’t it just go from the ignition to the NSS to the solenoid?GG
One other thing. When he locked the car – he used the fob – he has since not been able to find the fob.
He used his spare key to unlock the door, and is using that to try to start the car.
I was told the 2004 sonata doesn’t have any chips in the keys, and I thought I used the spare key to drive his car before.But….I don’t remember if I used the fob to lock it first, then the spare to unlock and drive.
I found this in a search……”Here is what I think is going on, the ETACS is in theft mode, you can leave the key on with the battery charged for 30 minutes and see if it resets”
Would there be any idiot light on that means theft mode?
Update: Problem Solved.
If was indeed the theft deterrent system that was blocking the starter.
Luckily, he found his keys (and more importantly the FOB!) so he was able to disarm the system and all is well.
Otherwise, if none of the below worked, I would have had to install a starter bypass (which for safety reasons, I really didn’t want to do….)
potential tricks to disarm the system with a working key without the FOB (his car does NOT have a chip system, only the FOB)
1. put key in door, turn to the left, then all the way to the right – should disarm the system
2. put key in ignition turn to run, don’t crank, leave for 30 seconds, then crank
3. same as above but for 30 minutes instead of 30 seconds
4. disconnect battery for about 15 or 20 minutesBut didn’t need to – found keys – that’s the easier solution…..at least for me.
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