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I have 2004 ford Escape 3.0. At 62K the fuel pump went out, just stopped pumping. I replaced it with a Motorcraft pump and all was well for 2 months, then that pump quit, so I replaced it again. Now it’s 2 months later and the 3rd pump has quit. The question is, is this just a bad coincidence or is there another reason for all these failures that I should be looking for? My fuses, relays and wiring seem to be ok and the car has been babied since new, including being garaged and never off road. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
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Took the relay panel apart as far as I could, mass of wire inside of coarse. Followed the wire from the relay to a large loom of wires that goes into the top of the left front fender. From there I don’t know where the wire goes to get to the inertia switch or the other connection points in between, or where the connection points are, any ideas?
It doesn’t hurt to ask a Ford Dealership, “Do you know where I can find connector C263, between fuel relay and the inertia cut off switch?”
or the net…
I used “ford escape 2004 connector C263” and got…
http://www.2carpros.com/questions/ford- … g-problems
That post says that C263 is in the driver’s door, “remove lower kick panel” and find it from figure 2, which never loaded ’cause I’m on the Pokey Net.
Jacob might be able to post up another wiring diagram for you and a connector location diagram. C8-)
Here is this for now.
PLEASE NOTE: Some diagrams may appear to be missing because of gaps in the number sequences. These “gaps” are actually for diagrams that do not apply to the vehicle model selected.
24-6
We can discuss all day long as to where we might find this voltage drop but usually what I will do is confirm that the voltage drop exists between the two components as in your case here (relay and inertia switch) Make sure the inertia switch or the relay is not causing the drop, if neither isn’t cut the wire, and replace it with a new one.
It doesn’t have to be routed within the harness that the old one is.
Heck, I don’t really care how you get it there just use some good heat shrink butt connectors, put the wire in that black loom, wire tie it along the way avoiding things that move and exhaust, and then make a label to go under the hood advising that the wiring has been replaced and rerouted.If you are going from the relay center just unsnap the bottom of the relay center and find the output wire color that leads to the correct relay and give yourself a few inches, cut the wire,splice onto it, route it out of the relay center not interfering with anything else and on to the destinations. The reason I say destinations is because if you look at the diagram section of that wire has s138 in the middle and you need that utilized into your new circuit. Along the way to the inertia switch you need to join another wire and run it to the splice.
Check the relay connectors for corrosion and looseness as some fords had that problem.
I will post the splice location in the morning when I get to the shop where I can pull it up.Wow, again thank all you guys for the help, I would have quit a long time ago if not for you! I’ll keep trying…
I don’t know why the pics are not loading? The inertia switch is on the passenger A pillar below the belt line at the bottom behind the kick panel and the wiring seems to run down the sill plate and goes under the carpet under both front seats and then to the c263 at the driver side kick panel area near the sill plate area looks like under the carpet just behind that kick panel.
Nonetheless if you live in a climate that uses salt and whatever to treat roads in the winter this is the likely area that something like this will exist. You may have to de-carpet this thing to find it but I would check these connectors for corrosion 1st.
The voltage is low on both sides of connector 263, I guess that just leaves splice 138. I’ll check that when Jacob posts the location. I don’t see any signs of water getting in through the A pillar either. This is a California car and has never even seen any snow, so I don’t think that corrosion is a factor. I’m beginning to wonder if this could be a problem in the PCM, could it pull the voltage down? I did have a similar problem with my 97 T-bird where it became hard to start, till it wouldn’t start at all and it was the PCM.
The PCM could be a power sucking pig that causes a drop somewhere else. Unplugging the PCM to restore 12.5 volts at the fuel pump, only means that the PCM draws sufficient load to cause voltage drops elsewhere. UNLESS you have a specification on the PCM that says it draws 100 mA under normal conditions, and yours draws 500mA (or any number way above spec) then the PCM is not suspect.
From the 2carpros.com literature, they talk about the PCM 5V reference bridging 12V at the connector, THAT would be a problem. If all of your connectors are clean, then look no further for voltage sense bridging 12V.
Keep looking for a bad connection. Most bad connections will create a conditon of high resistance (voltage drop) or even open circuit , while a few cases will cause a drain on the battery.
I would lose patience and run a bypass wire between relay and inertia switch. It would bother me more that I’m having wiring problems with a 2004 model.
connector 263 is pre inertia switch and may just be the right area for a drop to exist.
connector c392 is the main connector to the inertia switch so to translate what is going on for you is this. The dg/yellow wire is the input wire from the relay and the pink/black is the output to the fuel pump.here is the the locations and views.
Connector LocationsView 151-23
Connector LocationsView 151-25
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