- This topic has 9 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 10 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
Hello,
Is swapping out the engine in a 2004 Accord LX 4cyl. A/T without removing the trans. possible? I don’t have a lot of space and would be willing to work a little harder to keep the tranny in the vehicle. I will have to roll the car backwards to provide room for the engine hoist, which is the main reason for leaving trans, axles, wheels, & tires on. If I absolutely must pull the trans. I will have to come up with dollies or, moving car with the floor jack, which I do not want to do. The research I’ve done points to it being possible but, more time consuming. Thank you in advance.
-
Replies
-
You can probably do it if you get crafty. I’m sure you can rig something up to hold the transmission up but I think you will find in the long run it will be much easier to just pull them together.
Thanks ArmedsouthernEr . I’m not sure crafty describes me for swapping an engine so I just bought 4 vehicle dollies and will carry on.
I am getting ready to attach the trans to the replacement engine and, I have a question. Is there anything I need to do with the torque converter before installing? The manual says to install the converter in the trans, with a new o ring and then mount trans to engine. I have never done this and just need any tips or tricks to make this go smooth. Thanks in advance
Did you put fluid in the converter? I’ve heard people say you have to do this and others that say you don’t. Not sure myself, just thought I’d mention it.
Did you remove the torque converter? If not, and it’s not leaking, leave it alone. Also, make sure you only use Honda transmission fluid if you end up adding any.
Personally, I like to drop the engine and trans out the bottom with the cradle on that application. I find it to be the easiest way, but I’m sure that’s not as easy in a garage. No matter, sounds like you’re making progress.
Good luck and keep us posted.
I pretty much always try to remove the engine and trans together on FWD cars if possible. I’ve done it plenty of times the way you’re describing, I just put the steering knuckles and tires back on after removing the axles so I can roll the car around.
Thank you stiv625. I was actually able to leave the car in place and position the engine hoist properly for removal. The engine and trans are mated and I am waiting for some bolts that Honda recommends be replaced. Waiting is not a bad thing as the temp is about 16 degrees F and the garage is unheated. I’ll update later. Thank you.
After a bout with the flu and many hours spent watching ETCG vids, the car is up and running. I broke two electrical connectors and, realized the thermostat should have been replaced prior to installing engine. Engine started right up and threw no codes, which amazed me. Alas, there is a problem. As best as I can tell without a lift, the drivers side axle seal is leaking. Not sure if I damaged the seal or possibly the axle is not fully seated in the diff. There is .112 clearance between inboard shaft housing and case. I watched Eric’s video about changing axles and he mentioned that it should be flush with the case. In hindsight I probably should have put new seals in but, I’d love to not have to take it all apart again. Given that the car runs well, could it be possible that the axle is not fully in? Any insight/advice is greatly appreciated.
It’s not likely that the axle is not fully seated. Once they click home, they’re usually in place. Most leaks like that are caused by faulty seals. Replacing the axle seal is probably the way to go. Just be sure that’s where the leak is coming from.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.