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2003 Escape 3.0 has the wipers just drop out on occasion when in use. Smacking the wiper blades at the base of the arm usually fixes the issue for a moment and then it will come back eventually. First thing I did was to pack the connection with electrical grease. It didn’t make it any worse but did not solve the issue. I ordered a new motor off ebay for 20 bucks and dropped it in, saw the same results.
Next I just got it apart and checked the voltages at the connector. Yes I know I should of done this first.
pin1=GRN/ =gnd
pin2=WHT/BLK =constant power for “park feature”
pin3=BLK/RED =low
Pin4=BLK/PNK =med
Pin5=BLU/ORG =highThe selector switch seems to be doing its job but what concerns me is the voltages I’m seeing between the gnd pin and the selected speed pin, as well as park feature pin. I’ve seen 6v,13v, 18v, and even 25v on different tests! I’m currently digging through the haynes manual
and it only calls for 4 pins instead of the 5 I have at the connector and the colors are off a bit, but I’m not sweating that too muchand I’m still not sure whats up.Is the switch messed up?
Why am I not getting a constant 12-13v at that connector?
Why am I seeing 25v at that connector?I also have another suspicious electrical issue on this vehicle as well. Dash gauges will go through a reset (peg all the way right and then come back) while the car is running when it really starts to miss. If that wasn’t enough there is also a P0303 (yes it runs very rough and has a significant miss) that I haven’t gotten to yet, put the coils, plugs and new gaskets are sitting there waiting for the motivation. I’m not sure it’s related at all, but I wanted to make sure you had all the cards.
Imgur album with photos later in the thread
Thoughts?
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[quote=”damien381″ post=152878]2003 Escape 3.0 has the wipers just drop out on occasion when in use. Smacking the wiper blades at the base of the arm usually fixes the issue for a moment and then it will come back eventually. First thing I did was to pack the connection with electrical grease. It didn’t make it any worse but did not solve the issue. I ordered a new motor off ebay for 20 bucks and dropped it in, saw the same results.
Next I just got it apart and checked the voltages at the connector. Yes I know I should of done this first.
pin1=GRN/ =gnd
pin2=WHT/BLK =constant power for “park feature”
pin3=BLK/RED =low
Pin4=BLK/PNK =med
Pin5=BLU/ORG =highThe selector switch seems to be doing its job but what concerns me is the voltages I’m seeing between the gnd pin and the selected speed pin, as well as park feature pin. I’ve seen 6v,13v, 18v, and even 25v on different tests! I’m currently digging through the haynes manual and it only calls for 4 pins instead of the 5 I have at the connector and the colors are off a bit, but I’m not sweating that too much
Is the switch messed up?
Why am I not getting a constant 12-13v at that connector?
Why am I seeing 25v at that connector?I also have another suspicious electrical issue on this vehicle as well. Dash gauges will go through a reset (peg all the way right and then come back) while the car is running when it really starts to miss. If that wasn’t enough there is also a P0303 (yes it runs very rough and has a significant miss) that I haven’t gotten to yet, put the coils, plugs and new gaskets are sitting there waiting for the motivation. I’m not sure it’s related at all, but I wanted to make sure you had all the cards.
Thoughts?[/quote] those are some weird voltages. I would need to see a wiring diagram to help further.
If your voltmeter is working properly, it shouldn’t show you any amount of voltage greater than your battery’s voltage. My first thought is that you’re not paying proper attention to where your decimal point is at while you’re reading the numbers. I’d sooner believe you’re seeing 1.3, 1.8, and 2.5 volts on those tests. Those voltages would correspond with resistors in the switch or the wiper motor assembly and that dictates your wiper speeds. If the motor has an electronic control module built into it; resistors are still used, but the module interprets those voltage signals through the resistors as an input request for a particular speed.
Cylinder 3 has a misfire per your code. Pore engine performance with a faulty coil could mean low voltage which can make the computer not allow some items to work to preserve functions like the ignition system.
I have seen some cars with crazy high voltage, but mostly while running due to a faulty alternator. There were fuses blowing and other systems burning up and freaking out over that, but that car had also been soaked in flood water for over a week.
Replace coil 3 & see if that helps. That will be the easiest repair too, very simple to get to. If that doesn’t fix it, go to a parts store that does a free check of your charging system. That may give you all the additional answers you need then if needed.
1) I just recently replaced the alternator on this vehicle less than 200 miles ago. It siezed and cracked so I got a cheap one from ebay. Not a fun job, however it had this wiper issue before that. I only say that because I think I have some significant electrical issues going on here, I can’t rule out this new alternator just yet for the other stuff.
2) I agree that I’m going to knock off the easy stuff first. The #3 cylinder requires pulling the intake so it’s going to be a few days until I get to that. It’s not difficult, just time consuming. It’s going to sit until then I guess.
4.)The schematic clearly has 5 wires going to it, not. I was wrong and thanks for helping me double check my work. I’m also not sure that I didn’t have autorange happening on my meter so I jumped back out there just now with my good meter.
EngineOFF battery = 11.91
EngineON battery = 14.91
EngineON measure @ connector = 15.52All the images, along with a wire diagram is in this album.
Imgur album with all the pictures
Here is the schematic
That voltage is way too high. Anything over 15v is considered excessive and a problem. You might want to check the output of your new alternator. Info on that here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-electrical-problems
As for the wiper problem, given that if you tap the motor it works, that would be my prime suspect.
Please keep us updated on your progress and good luck.
Follow up to this thread. There were two things happening here. First, I didn’t seat the ground on the alternator well enough when I installed it. A quick reseating of that fixed that issue worth the crazy high (25v) voltages. Secondly, there was a Crack in the plug on the motor that was making for an iffy connection. I swapped that part out, and alakazam it started functioning properly. All hail Eric, the Lord and master of this realm.
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