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I have a 2003 Honda CR-V LX 2WD 2.4L L4 DOHC 16V. It did overheat a few weeks ago, the radiator did need fluid added, but wasn’t drained out. Now we got a short flash of the oil light, in checking the oil it was dry… Prior to this we have been fighting a power steering leak, professionals replaced a power steering line, but the leak came back shortly after. As the power steering leak is located above the PVC valve, will also be cleaning/replacing it.
However, I just received this from my son, “Idk what’s causing it, but once the crv hits about 3000 rpm the car sputters but once you take your foot off the gas and the car changes gears, it’s ok until you get to 3k again. ”
We’re going to do the chemical head test when he gets home later, but does this sound symptomatic of a cracked head? What other considerations do we need to look at?
Any help appreciated. This has been our main vehicle for the past 7 years, problems are only now beginning to manifest.
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It may be possible its a trans issue. If the head gasket or head was cracked I would
think you would have a problem all the time. Check that none of the leaking fluids are
on any connectors. Also check cap and rotor and plugs.http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues
Good news in that the Head test came clean. The fluid in the radiator was also low, but not like it was before. He said that when the rpm problem occurred the electronics also acted up, lights dimming and such. We’re taking out the pcv now, checked the oil pressure sensor as it is faulty having only blinked on and then immediately off telling us to check the oil but it was dry (but it is still ok now). Transmission fluid is a-ok and no apparent indication of a problem there (fluid still pink, no gear sounds or such). Will go over that video.
Seems to be, or am hoping?, the radiator is separate from the oil issue, but that’s just a hope at this point… but the Head test came clean, so breathing a sigh of relief there..
[quote=”aminah” post=155952]Good news in that the Head test came clean. The fluid in the radiator was also low, but not like it was before. He said that when the rpm problem occurred the electronics also acted up, lights dimming and such. We’re taking out the pcv now, checked the oil pressure sensor as it is faulty having only blinked on and then immediately off telling us to check the oil but it was dry (but it is still ok now). Transmission fluid is a-ok and no apparent indication of a problem there (fluid still pink, no gear sounds or such). Will go over that video.
Seems to be, or am hoping?, the radiator is separate from the oil issue, but that’s just a hope at this point… but the Head test came clean, so breathing a sigh of relief there..[/quote]
Good so far. keep us posted on your progress.
Game plan
Clean the pcv, fuel injectors, etc. and of course checking spark plugs, etc.
Replace the Oil Pressure Switch and new gaskets and o rings for the Crankshaft (do see oil residue near around the joining of the cover to the body)
Get the pressure kit for the diagnosis on the radiator problem
Address the power steering once and for all with its leak. looks like the bottom reservoir tube needs replaced and leak somewhere out of view below or behind the pump)If sputter continues after these are done, address the Transmission as its source
Sound good?
Quick question, Do I need to drain the Oil before replacing the Oil Pressure Switch?
We’re still working on the J1962 16-pin diagnostic connector wiring for proper diagnosis, but have the new switch in and want to go ahead and put it on in.
[quote=”aminah” post=156884]Quick question, Do I need to drain the Oil before replacing the Oil Pressure Switch?
We’re still working on the J1962 16-pin diagnostic connector wiring for proper diagnosis, but have the new switch in and want to go ahead and put it on in.[/quote]
Usually you don’t have to drain the oil. You may loose a little. Do it with the
engine cold and have the other one ready to go back in.Where I’m at today. Changed out the spark plugs, but they did look pretty good; no oil, excess carbon, etc. However, the P0303 code is now the multi 300 with the 304 and 302 added to the 303. And a P1259 as well. The ignition coils went back in the same order, so I am going to rule out operator error in reseating them and look again at the wiring harness and coils. She has a new PCV valve, oil pressure switch, camshaft position sensor, and spark plugs. Researching further, found that Hondas should have their valves adjusted every 100,000 miles, she’s at 138,030. It was already in the plans to replace the gasket and o-rings, so will pick up that nifty tool Eric used in his how-to video and get that checked off.
With the P1259 now added to the 300’s, does this help narrow down where the problem is?
[quote=”aminah” post=157675]Where I’m at today. Changed out the spark plugs, but they did look pretty good; no oil, excess carbon, etc. However, the P0303 code is now the multi 300 with the 304 and 302 added to the 303. And a P1259 as well. The ignition coils went back in the same order, so I am going to rule out operator error in reseating them and look again at the wiring harness and coils. She has a new PCV valve, oil pressure switch, camshaft position sensor, and spark plugs. Researching further, found that Hondas should have their valves adjusted every 100,000 miles, she’s at 138,030. It was already in the plans to replace the gasket and o-rings, so will pick up that nifty tool Eric used in his how-to video and get that checked off.
With the P1259 now added to the 300’s, does this help narrow down where the problem is?[/quote]
See if this helps with p1259
I have pulled the valve cover off hoping to do the valve adjustment, but the rockers and interior are covered in carbon. We do do our oil changes faithfully so I was shocked. Any how to’s on removing the rocker arms? Does the timing chain have to be removed, or can I do this without that step?
I do understand I may have to go further down to the cylinder heads once I get these off for cleaning and inspect for where the carbon is coming from. However, the spark plugs did look good. Pointers on what could have caused all the soot other than lack of oil changes as that is done faithfully? It’s pretty bad 🙁
Have cleaned her all up, but still have a p1259 code, replaced the solenoid oil pressure switch, but looking like it’s the VTEC Oil Control Valve. Any videos or how to’s on replacing it?
no# 7
[quote=”aminah” post=161562]Have cleaned her all up, but still have a p1259 code, replaced the solenoid oil pressure switch, but looking like it’s the VTEC Oil Control Valve. Any videos or how to’s on replacing it?
no# 7
[/quote]Have you tried cleaning the strainer? I believe its 10 and 11 on the diagram.
http://www.justanswer.com/honda/25zxi-2003-cr-v-last-week-not-run-above-2800.html
Ah, yes, I cleaned and replaced the screens, #5 and 11, cleaned out the solenoid itself, has a new cam sensor put on on the intake cam. Not sure if I need to do the exhaust one yet but if I have to take her down to the cylinders I will or if suggested to do it.
I figured out the Oil Control Valve removal (that was a piece of cake,lol) and cleaned it up. No engine light running it in variable speeds parked, but in taking it out on the returning home at 4000 rpms, she lunged and started missing/hesitating again. This morning I cleaned it again, more gunk up had worked up into the screens. It’s idling good now but without driving like last night, will take her out in a little bit. There’s definitely an oil pan gasket leak.
my plan:
1.) VTEC Oil control valve, new serpentine belt (it’s rough), engine repair goop (2 part formula)
2.) oil pan gasket, air filter, 2nd oil change, engine repair goop and filter.
3.) .possibly need to replace the VTEC solenoid itself if these failConcerns….
4.) The issues in possibilities if these fail or isn’t done right away to prevent further damage, stretched drive chain, cam shaft damage, cylinder heads.Yep, p1259 came back again. It’s coming on when driving above 3000 rpms. Parked and Idling to 4000 it is fine, but in taking it out and coming back up the hill, it pops back on and loss of power.
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