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:unsure: I have a 2003 Concorde LXi. My problem is that after 3-4 starts, the engine doesn’t turn over. I can here the Fuel Pump engaging, but I can’t here
the Fuel Pump Relay clicking. I have replaced the Fuel Pump Relay. After 20 to 25 cranks, the engine turn over normally. Could this be a temperature
issue? It is starting to get frustrating. I can go to lunch and it is hit or miss when it wants to start or not. Is there an Ignition Relay that can go bad?Thanks,
Bunzjx
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Let’s start with which engine is it 2.7L??
When you say “doesn’t turn over” what do you mean? You should only use the terms “Crank – Meaning the engine is turning” “No Crank – Meaning the engine is not turning” “Start – The engine started running” “No Start – The engine did not run”
If you use these terms it will make it easier to diagnose.
OK. Let’s test for a weak fuel pump. Before cranking, turn the ignition switch on and then off several times, say 6 to 10 then try to crank the engine to see if it cranks easier. If it does then the fuel pump is weak, defective or the fuel pressure regulator may be bad.
Thanks Jotmon1,
I will try your suggestion the next time the car decides not to crank. I took it to a shop to get a diagnostic of the problem. Would you know it, they couldn’t recreate the problem. They said that when I replaced the Crankshaft Sensor I should have replaced the Camshaft Sensor also. My next questions is, where is the Camshaft Sensor located. It must be in a difficult spot, the reason it is so expensive to replace.During my earlier topics on this car, shops were telling me I have to replace this and that replaced, which I did most of it myself.
These suggestions were not what caused the Crank/No-Start problem. I think it is the Ignition Switch. One time when I was
trying to get the engine to start, I pulled on the key and the engine started. Now my question is. Can repair shops
(Firestone) repair the tumblers in the Ignition Switch or do they have to install a NEW one?The lock cylinder is just a mechanical device that lets you turn the Ignition switch which is the electrical part they are two separate things. Most aftermarket shops will just replace the lock cylinder and it will come with new keys, however they wont fit the lock cylinder in your door or trunk. you would still need your original key for that. you could pull these cylinders out and take them to a locksmith who would rekey them to the new key although that is kind of a pain. The dealership can tell you what the coding is for your original key however only the owner of the car can request this info with proof of ownership. The ignition switch itself is the electrical part and is usually attached to the lock cylinder and turned by the lock cylinder. two separate parts. I wouldn’t replace either based on the one time you pulled on the key and it started. that could be just coincidence you would need to be able to repeat this over and over to prove your problem lies in these components. You need to see what you are missing when it wont start. Spark or Fuel. Did you try priming the fuel system by turning the key on and off a couple times like the previous poster stated?
ArmedsouthernEr,
Thanks for breaking it down for me. I have repeated the Pulling/Jiggling of the key while turning at the same time,
after the initial ignition turning of the key failed. It may take me about 3 to 4 ignition turns instead of 15 to 20. This
is how I thought I narrowed it down to the Ignition. I took the car in and they are now telling me that it could be the
Crankshaft Sensor. When I told them that that was replaced with a Chrysler Part about a month ago the are now
saying that it could be the “PCM”. I am going to take it to an Electrical Repair Shop to see if they can diagnose the
same problem.
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