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The easiest way is to remove the coil pack, the valve cover and check the valve lash. I would hand crank the engine for each cylinder is at TDC, meaning both valves are closed, see if there is any play while moving the pushrods up and down. If there is any play, turn the rocker pivot nut until there is no play and add 1/2 turn to set correct lash. If that does not fix the tapping, then you have to go further and remove intake manifold to reach the valley to the bad lifters. Inspect the lifters for and wear on the rollers, pitting or other damage. If there is any pitting or damage on the rollers, time to install a new camshaft and lifters.
That sounds too extensive and major for me to trust myself with my baby, plus I don’t have the tools, I just work on small engines like mowers and whackers. Do you know how much they would charge to fix the problem at Pepboys or some other shop?
Does it only make the noise when you are accelerating? or does is it present all the time? I have a 2002 avalanche and sometimes if you get some bad gas cause lets be honest you don’t always get 87 octane even though it says it is. you can run 93 or higher through it and it solves what I call spark knocks. If the noise is there all the time then it is probably a lifter or a valve issue. You can watch some YouTube videos on manifold removal and valve cover removal, its not to difficult just a lot of disconnecting things and time consuming.
It’s a common misconception that you can just replace a bad lifter. This is not true. Lifters are matched to the cam. This means you can’t replace one without the other. If you find the problem is indeed a lifter, you’ll have to replace the cam an ALL the lifters to remedy it.
You may find this helpful.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/diagnosing-noises-in-your-car
Good luck and keep us posted.
If the noise is not there when idling or reving the engine in park, but it present only when accelerating could that still be a lifter or valve? Or maybe a spark plug issue?
I don’t think so. That sounds more like a misfire or detonation problem. For that this might be helpful.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues
I think your right, I replaced my acdelco plugs with some bosch iridium’s and that’s when I started hearing the news. I kept the old plugs so I am going to clean them up and put them back in till I can buy direct replacements. Ill post again if that was the problem. Thanks for the help
Just to make sure, some 5.3l engines have an issue when starting up from a cold soak. They will tap for a while then within a few minutes the tapping will stop. This is a known issue with the 5.3l. If this is what you have, it doesn’t require repair and doesn’t harm the engine. Let me know if this sounds like what you have and i can explain more.
No, for me its a taping sound only when I accelerate. You are right cause my engine does this for like 30 sec when I start it but the noise is only when accelerating and I had put the new spark plugs in just before this noise started. So I believe its just the spark plugs not being very compatible with the engine. Ill update tomorrow after I drive to work and see if I hear it. Thanks for the tip though cause I always wondered if it was something that mu engine did but its good knowing its common.
Well the tapping is always there. the truck has 145,000 miles on her and that’s alot for a chevy. Also when ever i’m going up hills it tends to sound like a diesel like with the tapping getting super loud. Also, the check engine light has been on for months now and the engine only has valve problems as I know of. But also whenever the RPM’s exceed 2,000 or 55-65 MPH, the check engine light starts to blink. Now I looked that up in the manual and it says it’s a MISFIRE. Now the truck doesn’t sound any different or ride any different besides the fact that the tapping gets louder and syarts to sound like a diesel. I’ve had guys with 7.3 Powerstroke’s ask what kind of diesel does she have in her and i luagh saying that she’s only a V8 5.3 Liter and that what they’re hearing is the valves tapping. Also, whenever we start the truck up after she’s been sitting, a whole buch of white puffy smoke comes out. It seems to be oil burning. That’s also how I came up with the conclusion that she has bad valves cause the oil is leaking past them into the cylinder then the oil is getting burned making the white smoke.
I replaced the plugs with the older ones which were still in good shape, the noise is still there so I am going to do an engine flush to see if that helps and maybe some seafoam before the flush too. If not Im going to pull the valve cover off and inspect everything, clean it up and put a thicker oil in maybe. I hope its not the flex plate cause I have heard it can make a similar noise. I hate messing with transmissions though so that will be a last resort. I wish I wasn’t so COD about the way my truck runs, I have heard most people just live with the noise.
I don’t think pulling the valve cover is going to do you much good but it never hurts to get dirty. If it’s a misfire problem then I would think you’d have a CEL or something to indicate the computer sees an issue. Mechanical issues can also set codes. You might be better getting a mechanic stethoscope and listening to the engine to see if you can find the source. More info on that here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/diagnosing-noises-in-your-car
I thought I would have gotten a CEL too but the truck runs great so I’m thinking it’s just a lifter making the noise. I’m thinking maybe a engine flush and oil change. Just to be safe I’m going to inspect the flex plate never hurts to be safe. Thanks for your help I’ll reply if anything changes
I seemed to have solved the engine noise problem by doing an engine flush with Motor Medic which I think is made by GUNK. I also used 10w 30 instead of 5w 30. I could have been lied to but I was told since I live in Florida 10w 30 would work a little better because of the heat in the summer…idk. The noise is gone now so we will see what happens. It was a poop storm of fixes that I had to learn how to do these last few months but my truck is finally running great. I added a pic of the motor flush I used in case anyone wants to try it, it’s easy to use but READ THE DIRECTIONS!!!!!
[quote=”vikingfirebeard” post=100884] I also used 10w 30 instead of 5w 30. I could have been lied to but I was told since I live in Florida 10w 30 would work a little better because of the heat in the summer…idk. The noise is gone now so we will see what happens. [/quote]
Some here would scoff, but I would have no issues whatsoever running something like Delo, or Delvac 15W-40 -especially in Florida. The higher detergent level and base numbers in those oils far outweigh the supposed risks to the catalytic converter.
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