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I have had this problem for a while, have no idea what the deal is. What happens is when you are coasting into a corner, no brakes no gas, the antilock
No lights, no codes. The reason we have traction control disabled is because it takes the liberty of activating when not needing, also making grinding noises.
Dont confuse a grinding sounds with normal abs noise, abs tends to make sort of a grinding/whirring noise
Sounds like a wheel speed sensor, maybe has a build up of debris on it, or the air gap is out of adjustment, but it seems like if that were the case the ABS would be applying the brakes to the affected wheel.
Thanks for all the help, it is normal operation noises. Where can I find the before mentioned sensor so I can inspect them. This has been an ongoing problem and I fear it is making the brakes go a lot quicker, but I do have brakes for life so… This seems like it could be a costly fix if we were going to take it to the shop, but if it just a simple sensor that can save a ton of money.
be sure to check the basics first. A bad wheel bearing often causes a wheel speed sensor to get funky readings.
When you pull the wheels, there will be an electrical connector going into the backside of the steering knuckle. It’s a hall effect sensor, and it uses a magnet that sends a signal everytime one of the ‘teeth’ on the tone ring go past it. The faster the speed of the wheel, the more signals, and it sends a sine wave pattern, similar to a radio wave looking thing, not really sure how else to explain it. If there is crud built up on the end of the sensor (it is magnetic) or the tone ring is damaged, it could give a bad signal, causing the PCM to think the wheel is slipping or locking up, and apply the ABS system during braking, if that makes sense.
It sounds like the ABS might be activating when you apply the brakes, this is actually quite common on GM vehicles in my experience and often it can be cleared up by cleaning the ABS sensors and tone rings, if not you probably have an ABS sensor starting to go and if you don’t have an ABS code to help you locate the failed part the best way to verify sensor operation is with a lab scope (and I know not everyone has access to one of those).
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