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2003 Blazer; 4.3, 4L60-E; 97,000 miles; 2wd

Home Forums Stay Dirty Lounge Service and Repair Questions Answered Here 2003 Blazer; 4.3, 4L60-E; 97,000 miles; 2wd

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    AnthonyAnthony
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      Little back story here. I bought this blazer a few months back. I believe in August. I never noticed the problem at first, but what happens is above 3000 rpm’s the engine just bounces off the tachometer without shifting(it’s quite scary actually, always feel like it’s going to over rev.) I was getting an intermittent P0355 for the CPS. So I started doing research. I replaced the TPS with a slight improvement now it would be able to get to about 3500 rpms, then it would jump. But now it would start to actually shift (albeit a firm “hard” shift.) I thought I heard it pinging when it jumps up(or the timing chains or valves, I can’t tell) so I replaced the fuel filter, cleaned the air filter (K&N it was filthy) and I pulled the CPS on the harmonic ballancer to check for contact. There were no visible signs of contact, so I cleaned it off, and re-installed. Then I performed a CPK variation re-learn procedure. After that the car would drive a lot better. I can hit about 4,000rpms, then it would do the same thing. Sometimes it would shift, and sometimes it wouldn’t. I immediately got a full tank of fuel after this procedure, and after driving home, literally about 5 minutes after I did the CPK relearn, the Check engine light came on again. This time entirely new. I got a P0300, and (2) P0304’s. Random misfires, and cylinder 4 misfires. Also, a hard start condition developed. No matter the temperature of the car. So I performed a tune up. I replaced the cap and rotor(both terribly corroded) and I replaced the wires and spark plugs. All the plugs I pulled were clean with no signs of oil burning. They smelt good too. After that I cleared the code and took the car home. On the way home the CEL flashed again, but then went out. I assumed it was miss fire again. I read the code and got a P0101, for the MAF. I did remove it to gain access to the driver side spark plugs. So naturally, I cleaned the MAF, and cleared the code. It has not yet returned. The hard starting seems to be getting better but I haven’t driven it enough to really know for sure yet. But, now when I drive the car, I can hit 4-4500 RPMs and I still get the same problem. My first ever WOT with this car was yesterday, and I didn’t hold it long enough to see if it would shift, I thought the engine was gonna go. To shed some light, once it hits the certain RPM range it feels as if the trans is in neutral, and never tries to shift. Normal driving is just fine, anything below 4k and it drives perfect. I currently have no check engine lights. I do believe there may be a knock, I can never really tell. I am trying all the cheap alternatives, I can not afford to take it to a shop. I am in the military, and make barely any money.

      So, to wrap up. I have received codes P0355, P0300, P0304, and P0101. I have replaced the TPS, fuel filter, cleaned the air filter, cleaned the MAF, replaced the cap, rotor, wires and plugs. I did a CPK relearn. The hard start only occurred after the CPK re-learn. The problem is getting steadily better… But still, the car does not run as it was intended. No I don’t drive it WOT every where, but I need the full power band to pass, and what not. Any help would be appreciated.

      Random bits of info.

      There are slightly larger tires on the truck than stock, and my speedometer is 3mph slow. I just changed the oil with 5w30 Valvoline Synpower, and a mobile one oil filter. When I bought the car it was 1.5 gallons low on coolant. Don’t know how long it was low before that. It doesn’t over heat, and hasn’t been leaking since then. No moisture on the oil cap, and the coolant looks good. There is no smoke coming from the exhaust. Everything works as it should. The car drives perfect until I get into it. The fan clutch may be going out.

      here is a video from before I did any work. I will get a new video of the current state asap
      http://s204.photobucket.com/user/pwnthis/media/Blazervid_zps3706ab28.mp4.html

      Edit: There was no build up on the screen on the top of the distributor. Apparently Ionic gas vapors (something the guy at the Auto Hobby Shop we have on base told me about) build up on this screen. Well mine was clean, and clear.

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