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2003 Blazer; 4.3, 4L60-E; 97,000 miles; 2wd

Home Forums Stay Dirty Lounge Service and Repair Questions Answered Here 2003 Blazer; 4.3, 4L60-E; 97,000 miles; 2wd

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  • #567497
    AnthonyAnthony
    Participant

      Little back story here. I bought this blazer a few months back. I believe in August. I never noticed the problem at first, but what happens is above 3000 rpm’s the engine just bounces off the tachometer without shifting(it’s quite scary actually, always feel like it’s going to over rev.) I was getting an intermittent P0355 for the CPS. So I started doing research. I replaced the TPS with a slight improvement now it would be able to get to about 3500 rpms, then it would jump. But now it would start to actually shift (albeit a firm “hard” shift.) I thought I heard it pinging when it jumps up(or the timing chains or valves, I can’t tell) so I replaced the fuel filter, cleaned the air filter (K&N it was filthy) and I pulled the CPS on the harmonic ballancer to check for contact. There were no visible signs of contact, so I cleaned it off, and re-installed. Then I performed a CPK variation re-learn procedure. After that the car would drive a lot better. I can hit about 4,000rpms, then it would do the same thing. Sometimes it would shift, and sometimes it wouldn’t. I immediately got a full tank of fuel after this procedure, and after driving home, literally about 5 minutes after I did the CPK relearn, the Check engine light came on again. This time entirely new. I got a P0300, and (2) P0304’s. Random misfires, and cylinder 4 misfires. Also, a hard start condition developed. No matter the temperature of the car. So I performed a tune up. I replaced the cap and rotor(both terribly corroded) and I replaced the wires and spark plugs. All the plugs I pulled were clean with no signs of oil burning. They smelt good too. After that I cleared the code and took the car home. On the way home the CEL flashed again, but then went out. I assumed it was miss fire again. I read the code and got a P0101, for the MAF. I did remove it to gain access to the driver side spark plugs. So naturally, I cleaned the MAF, and cleared the code. It has not yet returned. The hard starting seems to be getting better but I haven’t driven it enough to really know for sure yet. But, now when I drive the car, I can hit 4-4500 RPMs and I still get the same problem. My first ever WOT with this car was yesterday, and I didn’t hold it long enough to see if it would shift, I thought the engine was gonna go. To shed some light, once it hits the certain RPM range it feels as if the trans is in neutral, and never tries to shift. Normal driving is just fine, anything below 4k and it drives perfect. I currently have no check engine lights. I do believe there may be a knock, I can never really tell. I am trying all the cheap alternatives, I can not afford to take it to a shop. I am in the military, and make barely any money.

      So, to wrap up. I have received codes P0355, P0300, P0304, and P0101. I have replaced the TPS, fuel filter, cleaned the air filter, cleaned the MAF, replaced the cap, rotor, wires and plugs. I did a CPK relearn. The hard start only occurred after the CPK re-learn. The problem is getting steadily better… But still, the car does not run as it was intended. No I don’t drive it WOT every where, but I need the full power band to pass, and what not. Any help would be appreciated.

      Random bits of info.

      There are slightly larger tires on the truck than stock, and my speedometer is 3mph slow. I just changed the oil with 5w30 Valvoline Synpower, and a mobile one oil filter. When I bought the car it was 1.5 gallons low on coolant. Don’t know how long it was low before that. It doesn’t over heat, and hasn’t been leaking since then. No moisture on the oil cap, and the coolant looks good. There is no smoke coming from the exhaust. Everything works as it should. The car drives perfect until I get into it. The fan clutch may be going out.

      here is a video from before I did any work. I will get a new video of the current state asap
      http://s204.photobucket.com/user/pwnthis/media/Blazervid_zps3706ab28.mp4.html

      Edit: There was no build up on the screen on the top of the distributor. Apparently Ionic gas vapors (something the guy at the Auto Hobby Shop we have on base told me about) build up on this screen. Well mine was clean, and clear.

    Viewing 15 replies - 16 through 30 (of 72 total)
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    • #568474
      Kevin CriswellKevin Criswell
      Participant

        [quote=”tonyroc14″ post=82005]Anyone know where I can find an OEM fuel injector spider? I haven’t been able to find any anywhere!!![/quote]

        http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1411995,parttype,6224

        To get the whole spider you have to go reman, the OEM sells the injectors separately (6) and than the central hosing, would cost you about $700 if I remember right for everything. Or you can order the A/C Delco injectors separately (if you only have one bad) from Rockauto for about $75.00 plus shipping.

        #568605
        AnthonyAnthony
        Participant

          [quote=”Raistian77″ post=82010][quote=”tonyroc14″ post=82005]Anyone know where I can find an OEM fuel injector spider? I haven’t been able to find any anywhere!!![/quote]

          http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1411995,parttype,6224

          To get the whole spider you have to go reman, the OEM sells the injectors separately (6) and than the central hosing, would cost you about $700 if I remember right for everything. Or you can order the A/C Delco injectors separately (if you only have one bad) from Rockauto for about $75.00 plus shipping.[/quote]

          Thanks boss. The hard start has returned. :-(this car is pissing me off.. I haven’t had time to go to the shop because the marine corps has had me busy as you know what lately.

          #568972
          AnthonyAnthony
          Participant

            Well I’m pretty confident I have two problems here. I think my injector is going out, and I think my transmission needs an overhaul. I’m going to the shop tomorrow to diagnose it some more. But I honestly can’t think of any other reasons. Why would I get a hard start that doesn’t seem dependent on vehical, or weather conditions? Sometimes it starts fine whether cold or hot, and others it takes some to crank and crank whether cold or hot… Im starting to hate this car.

            #569118
            AnthonyAnthony
            Participant

              Took the car to some old mechanic in town. He hooked it up to a computer and couldn’t find anything wrong with the way the car was running. Had p0101, p0300, and p0335. Cleared all the codes and interestingly enough they haven’t returned. He told me he thinks my transmission is fine, because if it was slipping, especially as much as it is it would throw a code (not sure how accurate that is) but we test drove it and when the transmission acted up, the tach bounced off of 6k which is 1k passed redline btw. He suggested something isn’t right about that. There is no way the engine. Is rolling 6k, especially since I’m not wot. He suggested I replace the coil. So I did. Nothing changed. Still hard to start, and still bounces off the tach. Though I can get to about 4k and it doesn’t seem as harsh. I held the throttle to see if it would shift. It bounced off 55-6k a few times and then it shifted. Sooooo. Idk what the freak is wrong with this. I’m sure someone has some experience with this?

              #569174
              college mancollege man
              Moderator

                The p0101 is a new code. which will cause hard start and the
                possible misfiring. Try searching for vacuum leaks around the
                entire air intake tube. next clean the MAF sensor and the connectors.
                There was a tsb for the crank position sensor needing shims. see if this
                helps. You could pull the crank sensor and inspect the reluctor wheel for
                cracks.

                http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/64yja-chevrolet-chevy-blazer-chevy-blazer-2000-4-3-liter.html

                #569181
                BillBill
                Participant

                  As I have been following along reading every ones suggestions I have had the feeling that I have seen at least one of your problems before. Because of my age sometimes my brain is stuck in neutral.
                  Some of those engines had a problem with the distributor gear wearing badly. This causes the distributor shaft to “chatter” and will cause crankshaft/camshaft correlation problems and the jumping tachometer and misfire codes you are experiencing.

                  You might pull the distributor to see if you can shave with the drive gear teeth. You will need to perform a relearn again after reinstalling it.

                  #569242
                  Jonathan StiverJonathan Stiver
                  Participant

                    That’s really interesting and seems like it would explain just about everything, I’d check that dizzy gear for sure then

                    #569247
                    AnthonyAnthony
                    Participant

                      [quote=”wysetech” post=82339]As I have been following along reading every ones suggestions I have had the feeling that I have seen at least one of your problems before. Because of my age sometimes my brain is stuck in neutral.
                      Some of those engines had a problem with the distributor gear wearing badly. This causes the distributor shaft to “chatter” and will cause crankshaft/camshaft correlation problems and the jumping tachometer and misfire codes you are experiencing.

                      You might pull the distributor to see if you can shave with the drive gear teeth. You will need to perform a relearn again after reinstalling it.

                      [/quote] I’m going to try this. But a question on the relearn, what type of relearn needs to be performed? CKP variation relearn? As far as I know the distributor can’t be adjusted for timing, or is this untrue.

                      #569268
                      BillBill
                      Participant

                        CKP variation relearn will need to be performed after the distributor is reinstalled. You will need a scan tool that’s capable of the procedure. The timing is not adjustable but I have modified the distributor on those to adjust for a badly worn timing chain but with the mileage on yours I don’t think it will be necessary.

                        #569272
                        AnthonyAnthony
                        Participant

                          [quote=”wysetech” post=82386]CKP variation relearn will need to be performed after the distributor is reinstalled. You will need a scan tool that’s capable of the procedure. The timing is not adjustable but I have modified the distributor on those to adjust for a badly worn timing chain but with the mileage on yours I don’t think it will be necessary.[/quote] it’s about time someone knows what’s going on with my car 🙂

                          #569275
                          BillBill
                          Participant

                            To be fair, I could be wrong so until you inspect the gear we won’t know for sure.

                            #569300
                            AnthonyAnthony
                            Participant

                              [quote=”wysetech” post=82392]To be fair, I could be wrong so until you inspect the gear we won’t know for sure.[/quote]true. But you have experience at least. Something interesting to note. The tach jumped a few hundred rpms today, but i didnt hear or feel the engine jump

                              #569476
                              spelunkerdspelunkerd
                              Participant

                                What surprised me about your videos is the discordance between engine noise and the tach gauge. It seems your tach is not giving you an accurate picture of engine speed. If it weren’t for your performance difficulty I would wonder if the gauge is bad, though I suppose you could have unrelated problems. Did you use an OEM Crank Position Sensor?

                                #569568
                                AnthonyAnthony
                                Participant

                                  [quote=”spelunkerd” post=82486]What surprised me about your videos is the discordance between engine noise and the tach gauge. It seems your tach is not giving you an accurate picture of engine speed. If it weren’t for your performance difficulty I would wonder if the gauge is bad, though I suppose you could have unrelated problems. Did you use an OEM Crank Position Sensor?[/quote] never replaced the sensor. Just took it out and inspected it. I’m going to look into the distributor and see what I get. I also feel as if I have more than one problem

                                  #569598
                                  EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
                                  Keymaster

                                    I like the theory of the distributor gear because it does fit a lot of the issues that you’re talking about. Good call Wisetech. Keep us posted on what you find when you remove the distributor. Post pics if you’re able. We love show and tell.

                                  Viewing 15 replies - 16 through 30 (of 72 total)
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