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My brother’s 2003 Acura TL type S, Automatic unfortunately 🙁 , the blower fan doesn’t work. I yanked the connector out, and it was all torched and melted, and typically from previous experience that tells me that the blower motor is toast, or it’s jammed up with leaves or something.
I pulled out the motor, tried to make it run by connecting the terminals to my quad battery, all it did was spark, and the wires got really hot, no spinning at all.
Then I figured the blower motor was bad for sure, so I went to test the power at the connector, and for some strange reason I have battery voltage present on both terminals of the connector, the wires are pretty burnt up, but nothing is shorted from what I can see.
The wiring diagrams are ridiculously hard to follow, I’m a 3rd year mechanical engineering student with plenty of mechanical experience and I was still scratching my head.
is it normal to have battery voltage on both terminals with the connector unplugged?
I’m almost positive it’s the blower motor, but I don’t want to spend $155 and have that not be the problem.
Help somebody!
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Ok, so here’s the update, I replaced the motor because it was shorted, the new one didn’t work when I plugged it in. I noticed that the connector was melted so badly that the pins were actually touching each other, causing a direct short to ground, I replaced the connector with new terminals, AND STILL NOTHING, AARGH!!!! So I jumped the ground side of the motor to ground and it runs at full bore all the time.
By bypassing the blower pack resistor, the motor runs. The blower speed control is on the ground side of the blower fan, so the climate control always delivers power to the motor with the key on, and it applies a ground to the motor by activating a transistor in the blower pack resistor.
Since there was a direct short through the BPR, I believe that the large amount of current fried the BPR, hence bypassing it resulted in the motor running.
I’m going to test it today to see if the BPR is indeed fried as well
So the problem ended being caused by a bad blower motor, it was drawing far too much juice, melted the connector and shorted the two pins together, which the short to ground ended up frying the blower pack resistor/transistor unit.
So if you have a bad blower motor, bench test it, if it doesn’t work, replace it, and if it still doesn’t work, it probably took out the blower pack resistor as well. I did a bunch of tests on it as per mitchell on demand, and that resulted in the condemnation of the BPR as well.
Man these cars are expensive to fix, and I even have 30% off at my local parts store
If I’m honest that’s the worst car Honda ever made. An embarrassment to the brand if you asked me. To that end, your issue is a common one and you were right to replace the blower and the connector. It may not be the BPR that’s bad however. Check all the fuses. Given that you had a major melt down it’s not beyond the realm of possibility that you have a blown fuse. Also, it’s not a bad idea to replace the resistor as that is most likely fried as well.
Keep us posted.
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