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HDWewson, Check to be sure the caliper pins were re-installed correctly. There is an upper one and a lower one. I believe the lower one has the flats along its length. The pins need to be removed and the grease wiped off to notice the flats. The -08 and some -09 accords had the pins swapped (upper vs lower) and there was a TSB issued to correct this along with a revised pad material and spring. The vehicles had pad wear problems. The other thing that comes to mind is that the pin (little bump) that is on the back of the inboard pad’s backing plate. may not be seated in the groove of the piston. The piston has a cross indentation in the face that allows it to be turned so it retracts back into the caliper. The piston extends out as the pad wears so the parking brake maintains adjustment. You can see the cross in Eric’s video showing his special tool that retracts the piston. I think it would be difficult to re-install the caliper if the bump were not seated the the piston groove. The pad may also be sitting at an angle if the bump is not seated correctly. That may also cause the “dragging”. How long are your rear pads lasting? I had a 6th gen accord and the rear pads lasted over 80k miles. –Gen3
Hi WDHewson,
Seems like the vehicle’s brakes are behaving properly. Is there any concerns with the pads wearing out sooner than expected? The fact that you can still touch the discs even after light use is pretty good. There is a lot of kinetic energy that gets converted into heat when the brakes are applied. Could it be more with how this particular make/model of vehicle with its engine and transmission give more of an appearance of “drag” than anything else? I don’t know myself. Thoughts anyone? Keep us posted.
My brakes are always warm barely touchable on both my cars even with light use. I’m thinking it might be normal. Especially if all your brakes are the same. How many miles have you been getting out of your pads before you have to replace them?
Are the pads getting a hot smell when you do drive for a longer distance. Hard to describe the smell but very noticible when they start to really drag and get hot . One other thing that comes to mind is was the master cylinder replaced because sometimes one needs to adjust the part going into back of master cylinder or that may put a little pressure on master cylinder causing the drag. Good luck, keep us posted.
Hello and thanks to those who so helpfully replied.
My pad life is really pretty good. In kilometers, about 120 000 km for the front and about 155 000 km for the rears. And very equal wear left and right and inboard and outboard pads. But I do drive like the old man that I am, and my geography is flat flat flat.
So I think that my small amout of heat is pretty normal for this car. I do have the little “pip” on the inboard rear pad correctly located into the piston surface recesses.
But my occupation has me doing a lot of energy efficiency studies, and I find it irksome that my gasoline is heating the rotors while I don’t actually have the brakes intentionally applied. Thanks again.
It’s very important to use the proper lubricant on the slider pins silicone paste is the only way to go here, any other lubricant causes the pins to hang up eventually in my experience. Given that there is no ONE brake that is hotter than the rest I don’t think it’s likely that the brakes are dragging as you suspect but rather I think this is a normal condition and probably not worth worring about.
Eric:
Thanks.
I monitor my remaining pad friction material pretty religiously. For two reasons, keeping the brakes fit, and getting the most out of my pads before replacement, so I let the friction mater get pretty thin, but not so much to activate the squealers.
As the friction material thins the pin sliders extend more from their holes and are more likely to bind if slightly imperfect regarding lube, dirt, rust.
With respect to all….
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