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So I’m looking for a right track verification here.
Backstory:
P300 – Random Misfire
P328 – Knock sensor 1 Circuit High Input (bank 1)
Both there for some time.
Could feel the misfires at idle every few seconds.Now fast forward to a few days ago, actually right when we had the big snowstorm, it died while he was driving home and wouldn’t start up again. Did a bit of research, seems the internals of a few of the distrubutors are a common issue/fault. So I banged on the old distrubutor’s metal case with the bottom end of a screwdriver while trying to start it, sure enough, fires up and runs to get it to his house.
I replace the distrubutor, noting with my android phone’s camera the rotor position by removing the cap first before yanking it, then placing new one as close as I could. Works fine, however, the 2 codes remain. As in clearing, they come back, and you can still feel the misfires, although not as bad. And now it’s got a quite loud acceleration noise, almost like a backpressure issue causing an exhaust manifold leak. I of course do plan to get the finite timing redone once the major issues have been addressed, but I just can’t see a couple millimeters being the cause of this thing’s woes, assuming I got it off at all when I referenced the picture to re-stab the new distrib.
My plan is to yank his intake, check his plugs for anything obvious, clean MAF and TB, replace that side’s manifold gasket (other side was leaking and I already replaced) but I never did the other as that required removing the intake and such, and he was pressed for time. If that all pans out, then yank his O2 sensor to check for excessive backpressure.
That solid, or should I be looking at anything else first, and in addtion?
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try doing a power balance test. If you resolve the misfiring
see if the knock code goes away.http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues
Just as a quick update, not the easiest to work on vehicle. Wow.
Anyhow, changed plugs, driver’s side manifold gasket, cleaned everything I could think of, and replaced a few hoses that looked/felt not long for this world. Still P0300, and P0328 (but this one is a notorious issue for these as I understand it).
Yank Bank1 O2 sensor (and peeve the neighbors), ran fine with no P0300. Ran again with it disconnected, but in, P0300, with no power, stuck below 45mi/h. So I believe either the cat is clogged, or exhaust down the line is backed up somehow. Once I get a new radiator(leaks badly) I’ll lock it down from the rear up, pulling exhaust components, and restesting.
You can check for an exhaust restriction with a simple vacuum gauge test. There’s a video in the article College man posted. I would suggest you do that before diving in just to confirm that’s what the issue is.
Keep us posted on your progress.
I actually got an backpressure tester ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SQW9S ) as I kinda suspected something as there is a large exhaust leak down the line somewhere that’s easily noticable. Unfortunately it’s damaged. So I have to ship it back and get a new one. I will replace the radiator (yanked old one today) tomorrow. I’ve seen all the videos you have multiple times now, so I’m familar with that one, however unless you’re familar with the specific line I kind of consider that test a bit more subjective as it’s not that uniform from one vehicle to the next.
As in some drop near 0, others not nearly as much, although it’s a good indicator, as well as seeing if there might be an intake leak at the same time. I’d just like to have the backpressure tester for a smoking gun; but I’m likely just weird. 😉
Think it might be a bit excessive?:
[URL=https://imageshack.com/i/5sxfs9j][IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/208/xfs9.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
😉
..And that’s with the bung leaking..So…Yeaaaaah.. Once I can feel my toes outside for more than 5min stretches I’ll start on the exhaust.
So…Friend got the 2 replacement catalytic converters in, got the exhaust manifold dropped to wrench out the front bank cat, got everything in, all buttoned up, then of course since this vehicle fights against just about anything and everything, it shifted just enough on lowering it to have the wood blocks on the jack fall. So it then falls forward to land on the steel jack with the bottom extension of the oil pan an inch or two off the ground.
I assume the oil pickup is now bent and one of the rods is tapping it as once tested (I didn’t see that it caught the oil pan right off) it had a lovely rattle-can sound that goes at the speed of the engine.
And of course to remove the oilpan is pretty much ridiculous IMO:[IMG]http://i62.tinypic.com/znk02b.jpg[/IMG]
I don’t see any obvious crumples other than where the jack slammed the drain area. Deformation is about an inch into it.
EDIT: finished this today, I got a long screwdriver inside and pried down though the drain plug, which seemed to remedy the majority of the noise. Will update if anything changes, but I’m fairly sure it’s fine, just a little more noise that’s annoying rather than dangerous.
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