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I am a USA expat currently living in New Zealand, and have a right hand drive 2002 Honda Odyssey Absolute imported from Japan directly. Numbers I can find on it are
LA-RA6, RA6-1206547, TYPE ABSOLUTE, S3N2 45 -R81 -A -CSpecifications: 2WD 2.3-liter 4-cylinder engine with a 4 speed (a4) automatic transmission.
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Transmission issues: [/b]1. When cold, 1st to 2nd gear will clunk in hard/slip/make a drive error flash.
2. Reverse when gas hit hard or going up hill, slips warm or cold[b]What I’ve done so far that has made it drive able:
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1. Had transmission flushed twice/ fluid changed at 111,000kms. Transmission did well for 2 days then went back to error’ing. Tech said he didn’t see any debris in the old oil. I went back to him after first time I continued to have problems. And he gave me a half discount to do it again.
2. Put an inline filter on an outside line of the transmission to pick up any debris internally.
3. Anti slip goo put in for bad transmissions. (a trusted brand here in NZ)
4. Replaced the thermostat to a different version that helps heat the engine quicker in the morning as these problems do not exist after the engine is warmed up. Theory is there. Whether this helps or not is debatable.
5. Checked all shift, lockup and linear solenoids for screen clogs. All are clear.We have been driving it this way for over a year and it still runs flawlessly after you warm it up for 5 minutes. Besides reverse. Reverse will slip no matter what if you hit it hard warm or cold. We even took the van on a camping trip lately all loaded up over mountains it did great.
My question to you:
Do you think the internal parts in my transmission are failing? Or do you think one of the solenoids has gone bad?
My opinion:
Not the lock up solenoid as I don’t have slipping in gears 3 or 4 on the hwy. Possibly a shift solenoid or linear solenoid? Could be a bearing worn internally from what transmission shop told me. Those were known to fail in the A4 transmissions. They want $5k to rebuild. Van has 122,000km on it, paint fading but runs well. Will just drive it into the ground until it fails as the van was bought for $5k and not worth it to dump that much money into it. But it really seems like it’s just not getting enough oil in the clutch packs for 2nd gear until it’s warmed up and the oil thins out. So what is causing it to starve 2nd gear clutch packs of fluid? Mystery.
Any knowledge or opinions appreciated.
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does it slip or does it goes into 3rd gear? in my honda accord 2002 v6, when first turned on and put it on d4/d3 it wont change into 2nd gear, wich causes it to jump from 1st to 3rd gear and flash the d4 indicator, if i start the car again and select 2nd it wont move, if this is happening to you i recomend to check a troubleshooting guide for your vehicle, like this one but its for the v6 accord 6th gen.
because it might be a bad PCM, same in my car, the fluid is clean and smells sweet, even now the shifts well the egagements after its been first turn one are sometime really harsh like really violent but thats caused by the PCM wich i checked and i did found that the signal going to the shift solenoid A incorrect acording to the manual. , with the reverse issue your having, well before i got my transmission rebuilt selecting reverse would make a very loud grinding noise.
so it could be a bad transmission, a bad PCM, a bad connection, a bad solenoid, a bad sensor, best if you check what codes your car has, so you get an idea of whats wrong. and it would be ideal if you share us the code.
If you drive it cold straight away it will sometimes slam hard into 2nd gear with some slippage. Sometimes stall and D light goes on. It never goes straight to 3rd. I can drive it down the road in first gear for 3 blocks straight off the bat. Then after 3 blocks I put it in second and it will go. (how warm it is at that point based on outside weather bases how easy or hard it goes in). But if you warm it up for 5 minutes and temp gauge reaches mid level, then everything works fine as if nothing is wrong at all.
:blink: :S :pinch:
I will need to buy a Scanner diagnostics tool this week to see what codes it is throwing out. In the mean time I’ll put the engine compartment back together. Where did you get the troubleshooting guide from? That address looked like some sort of union site? Where would I get my car and my year from?
take a read at this thread, the last post on it, but still good to read trough it all
http://honda-tech.com/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/honda-slips-cold-start-2648225/
hope it helps,
[quote=”luis77″ post=155607]take a read at this thread, the last post on it, but still good to read trough it all
http://honda-tech.com/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/honda-slips-cold-start-2648225/
hope it helps,[/quote]
Just put it all back together, after taking out all the solenoids and inspecting them. I drove it straight off cold and the most it did was slip just a bit between 1st and 2nd the first time it shifted, then not bad at all. actually best it’s been for a while. So not sure whats going on there. By the time I got back from the end of the block it was shifting like butter. Possible clog somewhere loosened up. I am still wondering if a shift solenoid would solve some issues.
Someone mentioned Auto RX as an inner transmission cleaner in a post. For $30 might be worth a try if the valves are sticking.
about the scanner, my accord has pre OBDII conector, if your car doesnt have a OBDII conector then its going to be difficult to get a scanner that you can use, also it has to be capable to read codes for the transmission not only the engine. the guide i found it while searching for the PCM/transmission pin map this is what i searched “honda accord 2002 v6 b7xa map” , its a really easy to understand guide, since my transmission was rebuilt the transmission shop called me to show me what was bad with my transmission and i was shown what transmisiion i had and the kit they were putting in so that it matched, if you can find it, its a nice get, it has everyting in it.
“Someone mentioned Auto RX as an inner transmission cleaner in a post. For $30 might be worth a try if the valves are sticking. ”
might worth a try, since the fluid is clean, i personally woulnt add any aditives since they are ony band aid temporary repairs, but if it gets working then you know a valve is getting stuck.
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