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Having replaced the crank angle sensor and still getting a code for it from two ecms I would suspect a wiring problem between the sensor and the ecm. you will need a good wiring diagram for the car and then start tracing back from the crank angle sensor to the ecm. looking for any damage that could cause a short. I am not sure if there is a rev limiter on that car but if so it might be part of the issue. good luck and keep us updated as to your findings.
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This is the step-by-step instructions from the service manual that I followed and the code is still there. All the wires are good. Will not go over 3000 rpm it is in “limp mode”
DTC P033S: CKP Sensor No signal
DTC P0336: CKP Sensor Intermittent
InterruptionDTC P1361:TDC 1 Sensor Intermittent
InterruptionDTC P1362: TDC 1 Sensor No Signal
1. Check for DTC P1359. If it is stored along with any
of the DTCs listed above, troubleshoot it first, then
troubleshoot the other DTCs.2. Reset the ECM/PCM (see page 11-4).
3. Start the engine.
Is DTC P0335, P0336, P1361, or P1362 indicated?
YES-Go to step 4.
NO-Intermittent failure, system is OK at this time.
Check for poor connections or loose wires at the
CKP/TDC sensor and at the ECM/PCM .sorry about the random numbers I copied it straight from the disk and those are supposed to be pictures or diagrams but it’s showing up as just random numbers on here.
Usually on the newer vehicles, anytime you replace PCM’s, you need to have them program to your specific vehicle, particularly if you have an anti-theft system.
Do you have a scan tool that can show live data?
Thank you for your reply. This is how I tested the ecm/pcm.
“How to substitute the ECM/PCM for testing
purposes
Use this procedure if you need a known-good ECM/
PCM to test a vehicle. It allows you to swap an ECM/
PCM from a “donor” vehicle without having to program
it to the test vehicle’s ignition key.
1. Cut a temporary ignition key for the test vehicle
with a non-immobilizer key blank.
2. Remove the ECM/PCM from the test vehicle.
3. Write the test vehicle’s VIN on the ECM/PCM you
just removed to avoid confusing it with the donor
vehicle’s ECM/PCM.
4. Remove the known-good ECM/PCM from the donor
vehicle, and install it in the test vehicle.
5. Tape the donor vehicle’s ignition key head-to-head
to the test vehicle’s temporary key (A). The ECM/
PCM will recognize the code from the donor
vehicle’s key (8) and allow you to start the engine
with the temporary key”I do not have a scanner for live input, but I can use one at Oreilly’s which is a Equus 3150 with live data, but I’m not familiar with this scanner. What should I be looking for?
I think I answered this in my email today but I think I mentioned there it’s a good idea to check the engine timing, if it’s off then it will set the code for the CKP and not run properly. I think I also mentioned that I’ve seen lots of problems with aftermarket distributors so I would recommend going with OE there. Honda ECU’s hardly ever go bad so I think that’s a dead end, look for something basic don’t overcomplicate it if you can help it.
yes I saw the email today and just now read it. I have an OEM technician manual from Honda and followed the timing procedures straight from the book but I can check and make sure the timing is ok. I replaced the original distributor with an after market distributor and it didn’t fix anything so I put the original back in. I can pull a known-good original distributor from the same donor car as the ECM/PCM. I’ll try to do this as soon as possible and update all of you as soon as I can.
and yes I completely agree that it is something small that I have overlooked and I do not know where else to look anymore. I appreciate all the help thank you!!
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