2002 ford taurus – cam synchronizer +other models

Couple tips I found.

1. Before removing old unit, get the engine to the position so the alignment tool drops into place (which should be TDC on #1)
THIS IS KEY – once the engine is in the position putting the new one into the correct position is trivial. If you need to move the
engine to get the alignment tool to drop into place, use a breaker bar on the alternator pulley and turn clockwise. If however
the old unit has a demolished piece inside, and the alignment tool won’t lock in place – you will need to use conventional
method to find when the engine is in the TDC on #1 – which I didn’t need to do – so you will need to google that one. (sorry)

If you are attempting to do this without the alignment tool – I suggest you get an alignment tool – with the tool, you do not
need to make any markings, I found the position had the arrow on the alignment tool pointing towards the hold down bolt.
most new cam synchronizers come with a new sensor and an alignment tool (mine did anyway). However, if you feel
more comfortable, make some alignment marks, also take a picture of the old unit before you remove it.

I found it much easier to remove the old unit by attaching a pair of locking vise grips to the outside ridge, and use those
as a handle to wiggle it side to side and pull up at the same time. I was able to get a much better grip on the vise grips
than trying to grip that small edge around the outside with my fingers.

2. Put the alignment tool on the new unit before putting it back in. Since the engine is in TDC and the alignment tool is in place
It doesn’t matter which direction it goes in….the direction is only to make it convenient to put the sensor wire in place. The
alignment tool sets the unit as if the engine is in TDC on #1. Also lubricate the gears and O-ring with oil before installing it.

3. If you want to know if you have engaged the oil pump rod, or if you missed it. Try to rotate the unit after it’s seated – if it
rotates, you are NOT on the oil pump rod. Also if your not on the oil pump rod, the hold down bolt, even when tightened, will
not keep the until from rotating, even with light pressure. If you are not on the oil pump rod – you will not have a happy day
if you run the engine that way.

The hardest part was the wiring harness that is above the sensor – it has a hard piece of plastic (I broke mine off – and used
some high heat tape to wrap the wires with afterwards. but if you can tie that bad boy up and out of the way – otherwise it
tends to throw off your angle when inserting the unit.

Also – when your tightening the two bolts onto the sensor (6mm) tighen gently – and don’t use a large rachet handle.
I sheared one of the bolt clean off (the bottom is still in the synchronizer unit). – be gentle with them. I will need
to replace the unit again now , it’s the easiest thing to do to deal with the snapped off bolt.

GG