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Telling the whole story of this van will make more sense.
I bought this van off a family friend for basically nothing, and went and picked it up with a trailer it had a “dead battery” from sitting. it had been sitting about 6 mo to a year, Its a 2002 ford e150 work van. it has low original miles and was originally a firehouse van, my friend bought it off them and used it for work.
it has about 80k miles. i unloaded it off the trailer and put a jump pack on the battery, and it would crank, slowly, but would crank. i then let the battery charge and got it cranking faster. but it would not start just crank. i then noticed the battery was bubbling over. it would not hold a charge.
I went and got a new battery and as soon as i turned the key on I instantly heard the Fuel pump run, which was very obvious considering i never heard it before! I Cranked it and it fired up instantly.
i took her for a ride and she drove perfect. everything worked. shut if off, restarted it a few times even. then i parked it. come back next day to move it and i get the same stuff again. no fuel pump noise just cranks.Short version:
2002 Ford e150 Cargo van 4.6 V8
-I checked spark. i have no spark
-No fuel pump, no pressure nor do i hear it prime.
-computer is working, i can read codes only stored code: P1000 (drive cycle not complete)
-KOEO test: P1288 (Cyl Head Temp Sensor) and P1711 (Trans Fluid Temp Sensor)
Not sure if that would affect starting, i have no idea.
-also have checked all fuses, inside fuse box and out, and swapped PCM relays with the blower motor relay. no change.The main issue i have is it started fine with the new battery, could the old one have shorted and messed something up?
Any help is greatly appreciated, i have big plans for this van!
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What is your battery voltage while off and while cranking?
Assuming both are ok, another direction could be alternator. The car seems to crank fine with a new battery. Here’s one way to test it:
I’d be looking for a parasitic draw that is flattening the new battery overnight. You say this is an ex fire department vehicle. If this van had non-factory emergency lights, sirens and radios, perhaps there’s something in one of those accessory circuits that’s drawing power at all times.
The battery is not dying. I’m having a crank no, start. I was hoping someone with,knowledge of ford stuff would know what can cut fuel and spark at the same time that would be my issue. I’ve also checked fuel inertia,switch.
I did remove an aftermarket alarm system from this because you would honk the horn and it would lock the doors. That was the only thing I know of that interfered with the factory harness. Everything else that was removed had its own wires to the battery. As far as the aftermarket alarm the only,wire that was cut was the ignition start position. Every other wire was just tapped into and soldered. So I removed all that and re connected the one cut wire. There is nothing aftermarket on this,van now. But that still did not affect the crank NO start.
I have no fuel pressure and No spark. What else controls both of these besides the ecu that could be my issue?
I’m unsure if this van has a,factory alarm or security system. The theft light IS NOT blinking when I crank. The key is not chipped.
Just an update for anyone that stumbles on this thread.
either the spark magically returned, or maybe i didnt have a good ground or something when i was checking it (most likely)
i checked for power at the pump and i had power, so i basically knew the pump was bad. cut a nice access hole in the floor (lol) changed out the pump and she fired right up!
my brother totaled his car at around the same time, and he has been commuting 2+ hours for the past 2 months with it!
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