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I have a 2002 accord with 218,000 miles. For the last couple of years it has developed a rough idle. I did sea foam it last year and that seemed to help a little, but it seems to have returned since then. Back in March I swapped the engine and trans with their JDM equivalents, but even then I still have it. I reused my old manifold and everything attached to it because the JDM is missing one vaccum port compared to the USDM. I replaced the front and rear mounts, and the two upper mounts appear to be in good condition. The car has recently started to bog down after it warms up, as low as 300 RPM (verified with a scan tool). In the last couple of weeks it has actually stalled on me three or four times. I know that it has stalled like that once or twice before, but several years ago before I even had a license to drive it, and only when revving it a little in park and then taking your foot off the gas. I just replaced the knock sensor (I broke it during the swap and then glued it back together, only to have a check engine light come on for it twice this month), but it only seems to be worse now. What used to be intermittent is now constant, and I’m running out of ideas. I do know that I have a coolant leak in one of the hoses on the intake, and that air in the cooling system could cause this problem, and I haven’t yet replaced the FPR. I am moving in four days and I’d like to at least know what I need in case I have to just take it to a shop out of desperation.
Side notes: I just changed the oil, so I know the level is correct. I bled the coolant and I refilled the reserve. This was all this morning and I’m still having the issue. Also, when it is stuck idling at that very low RPM, the timing advance is at about 16 degrees, in case that helps at all. I replaced the rear mount with a vacuum ported one just like the OEM.
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Either your IAC is not working or your base idle is off. see if this helps.
http://www.justanswer.com/honda/10lcu-2002-honda-accord-ex-cylinder-idles.html
Congrats on the 200k+ mileage. Please don’t ever dump seafoam anywhere near your tanks again if you’d like to keep this car.
You didn’t mention your idling issue under what outside temperature. In cold weather, the IAC valve could be sticky, but it’s summer…highly doubtful.
I forgot if you scanned a code. Anyway, my first thought was a vacuum leak somewhere, but maybe it’s something as simple to replace the ERG valve. And it wouldn’t hurt to pull that IAC, clean her, then reassemble. Maybe you’ll find a rubber line that wasn’t on their as much as it should have been. Before throwing time and too much energy, start your car, open the hood, then use your ear to hear something different. Vehicles are like relationships… there’s a lot of listening to figure out problems so it works. Good luck.
Check the fuel pressure at the rail. If possible, while driving. Never run a hosed fuel pressure gauge into the interior. I took my hood off, propped the gauge up and watched it through the windshield while driving around the block. Found out the fuel pump had plenty enough oomph to idle the truck, but under acceleration it couldn’t keep up.
Well, I’ll be darned but that screw was tightened all the way down. Any chance it could do that over time? The wax was still in place, I had to scrape it out and it took a lot of oomph to loosen the screw. I started it up quick and it idled fine cold, but it always has. I’m going out later, I’ll update then.
The problem has come up more recently as it’s gotten warmer, I didn’t really notice it in the winter time. The rough idle has been constant for a couple of years, but the bogging down and stalling is a recent issue that actually started on the old engine. I don’t ever put seafoam in the tank, i Always use the spray nozzle through the intake (no MAF to worry about on this car). I haven’t done that since the swap, but I figured it would be a good idea since the engine is used. I don’t have any codes, the only one I ever got was an intermittent knock sensor code, and I just replaced that on Monday
[quote=”Johnny Stang” post=173195]Check the fuel pressure at the rail. If possible, while driving. Never run a hosed fuel pressure gauge into the interior. I took my hood off, propped the gauge up and watched it through the windshield while driving around the block. Found out the fuel pump had plenty enough oomph to idle the truck, but under acceleration it couldn’t keep up.[/quote]
I’m not seeing a port to attach a fuel gauge to my car. Is there an alternative way of doing this?
Just looked up 2002 Accord. It doesn’t have a fitting on the fuel rail, sorry to send you on a wild chase. You’ll need what’s called a “banjo bolt”.
See if this link works (I’m very new here and not sure how to post links to elsewhere).
http://www.eb ay.com/itm/HONDA-FUEL-PRESSURE-GAUGE-ADAPTER-BANJO-BOLT-1-8-NPT-/360152710099
Hmm…take the space out between the b and the a. Only way I could get it to post.
I reset the set screw and it seems like the bogging has stopped except for a couple of minor instances. The rough idle is till present, but I guess that could be a spark plug issue too. I reused the NGKs that came with the engine, but I could swap them out for some new ones. I currently have the Honda distributor and wires that came with it, and from what I’ve heard, those shouldn’t be changed unless they actually go bad. The only other thing that I can think of is that the solenoid for the vacuum pressure on the rear mount may not be functioning correctly. I can try to find a way to test it, but I’m limited now that I’m moved into a dorm room instead of my garage at home. If you guys have any other ideas, please let me know! I will be driving back home within the next couple of weeks, so I may have some time to work on it then. If not I guess I could take it to a shop and have them check it out, but its expensive and completely against my DIY philosophy ;). Thanks to you all in advance!
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