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So I rebuilt the engine in my toyota Solara. it’s a 2.2 liter engine. I blew a oil seal on the oil pump which caused the rod bearing to roast. This is the cause of the rebuild. Before the rebuild the car ran great no problems. Now i’m running into overheating problems. Here is a list of all the parts that are new and replaced. It has a resurfaced head and block with a new head gasket. New water pump, OEM Thermostat, All new cooling sensors, New radiator, new timing belt, new oil pump. The head was cleaned, resurfaced, and pressure checked by the machine shop. The cooling fans operate but not like they are supposed too. Right now I have them unplugged so they run the whole time the motor is running. Heater pumps out hot air. used the spill free funnel to bleed the cooling system. While driving down the road the temp gauge will fluxuate between normal halfway mark on the temp gauge and about 3/4. as soon as you come to a stop the gauge usually come down for the most part. There are no exhaust bubbles in the coolant system, the motor has great compression and acceleration. Please help i’m chasing my tail and racking my brain from this problem. And i rebuilt the motor according to the factory manual and used all the torque specs. checked the head bolts two days ago and they are still torqued.
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sounds like either air still in the system or the thermostat. If you turn
the heat on full does the temp come down?http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/what-to-do-when-your-engine-overheats
So I rebuilt the engine in my toyota Solara. it’s a 2.2 liter engine. I blew a oil seal on the oil pump which caused the rod bearing to roast. This is the cause of the rebuild. Before the rebuild the car ran great no problems. Now i’m running into overheating problems. Here is a list of all the parts that are new and replaced. It has a resurfaced head and block with a new head gasket. New water pump, OEM Thermostat, All new cooling sensors, New radiator, new timing belt, new oil pump. The head was cleaned, resurfaced, and pressure checked by the machine shop. The cooling fans operate but not like they are supposed too. Right now I have them unplugged so they run the whole time the motor is running. Heater pumps out hot air. used the spill free funnel to bleed the cooling system. While driving down the road the temp gauge will fluxuate between normal halfway mark on the temp gauge and about 3/4. as soon as you come to a stop the gauge usually come down for the most part. There are no exhaust bubbles in the coolant system, the motor has great compression and acceleration. Please help i’m chasing my tail and racking my brain from this problem. And i rebuilt the motor according to the factory manual and used all the torque specs. checked the head bolts two days ago and they are still torqued.
Hmmm..
lots going on here..
First off, you state: “blew a oil seal on the oil pump which caused the rod bearing to roast”
Ok ..what about the pistons, rings, wrist pins, other bearings etc?
You also say: “cooling fans operate but not like they are supposed too.”
How so?
Going on what you describe and assuming you have bled the coolant system correctly.
It sounds like what we use to refer to years ago as a “tight” engine, where some component(s) are moving but with higher than normal friction.
Granted that was on a complete rebuild of a 60’s and early 70’s engines.
Is it possible you may still have damage component(s) due to losing the oil pump?Thanks for the info. Today i think i figured it out. i replaced the head bolts today on a hunch. One of the threads in the motor is trashed. Will take a torque but loosens up once the motor is to full operating temp. Cause a very small head gasket leak. Looks like i will have to call the machine shop to have them rethread it with a helicoil or a time sert. all the other bolts are holding a good torque but that one is where the piston was slapping the head at the top of the stroke.
That’s unfortunate. This is why I recommend replacement over a rebuild. There are many things that can go wrong with a rebuild, especially if you’re not used to doing them.
I realize that doesn’t help you now, but I’m hoping others that read the thread will proceed with caution.
Good luck with the machine shop and keep us posted.
Thanks for the comment Eric. I have to say that i love watching your videos and this forum is pretty awesome. If i was worried about money and time i think i would have just swapped the motors instead of a rebuild. I think in most cases that is the best scenario but it was a winter project and didn’t need the car up and running for a few months. Plus i worked on F-18 in the marine corps so i wanted to rebuild it ( Always wanted to rebuild a motor). I will say that i know the motor in and out right now. I know how everything works and it actually was a great learning experience. It is unfortunate that I have tore the motor apart and built it with different parts. I would like to ask if you have a video about troubleshooting the electrical system portion of the coolant system. I think that the small exhaust leak in the head gasket is causing the overheating problem that won’t allow the cooling fan temperature switch to kick on for the cooling fans. so after i repair the threads for the head bolts i will check to see if they kick on properly. The fans will work, the relays click when i apply power to them, and the switch works when i test it in water. But other than that i wouldn’t know where to look if this thread repair doesn’t cure the problem with the cooling fans not kicking on when bleeding the cooling system.
Your the man ETCG.
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