- This topic has 6 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 1 month ago by
.
-
Topic
-
So I have put quite a bit of money into this car, and I’m still having issues.
A little back information – I was originally going to sell the car because I didn’t want to put the money into it, but later decided to go ahead and have the shop do the repairs (I try to do most of mine but this involved removing the engine, or close to it, and I didn’t have the time or space for it).
Original Issues that I had “fixed”: it needed Head gasket, timing belt, water pump, etc. I also had the shop replace all the clutch components while they were in there (flywheel, pressure plate, etc. I also had them install a stainless steel transmission throat sleeve to hopefully prevent future wear).
When I got it back, the clutch pedal seemed quite soft to me, and he said that’s normal and will feel a little different once it’s broken in – fine. As I drove it I realized the pedal wasn’t just soft, it was sticking to the floor and slowly working its way up making it really hard to drive properly.
Components I also changed out: After a bunch of troubleshooting, reading, and replacing parts over a couple weeks, I put a new slave cylinder, soft line, and master cylinder – all of which didn’t fix the clutch pedal from sticking.
So I brought it back to the shop and their solution was to remove the clutch pedal assist spring. This did stop it from sticking, but it often still feels off, and behaves differently every time I drive – sometime it seems to catch really low with almost no travel before engaging, and sometimes it seems to catch high/higher.
New issue: So even after I decided to just deal with the pedal, another problem became apparent. After a longer drive (30-45 minutes or so) when the car is fully heated up, when coming from a stop and engaging 1st gear, it chatters uncontrollably and feels like the car wants to just shake apart. As soon as I’m out of 1st and running through the other gears, it shifts fine (with the exception of the clutch pedal still feeling a bit weird and not allowing for much engagement wiggle room).
Once I pinpointed the specifics of the issue I brought it back again. They had it for a week and said they couldn’t replicate the issue. So they gave it back and the next week I went on a trip it started up and I drove it straight there. It did misbehave for him, so he said to leave it so they could look at it.
About a week later I called to find out what the news was, and he said they couldn’t find anything, and he doesn’t see there being a solution – not what I need to hear after spending $2,500 on repairs for a car that was worth less than $1,800.
So, if anybody has ideas, that’d be great.
Thanks!
-
Replies
-
Well I own a Subaru repair and performance shop so this is pretty easy actually.
First the pedal sticking is probably a lack of return spring or an issue with the hill assist (if equipped) cable/spring, etc. Could also be a poor bleed job on the new slave and master. Some vehicles of that vintage had a TSB on weak slave cylinder internal springs. Get NABCO master and slave if you can find them. Or dealer parts.
The clutch chatter is a combination of things – poor flywheel surfacing, poor quality clutch, and (most importantly) old weak engine and transmission mounts. Seems strange I know but a nice set of Group N race mounts (you can get them from the dealer for a 2002 WRX). Will take care of most, if not all, of your problem.
Rick
Rick,
Thanks for your response.
For the pedal – I was aware of that TSB, which is actually why I replaced all those components; I had also figured I was bleeding it incorrectly which is why I had the shop try that too. He removed the assist spring (which he said only helps push the clutch in), but never mentioned anything about a return spring – is that something that doesn’t come stock? Considering all this, would you still suggest the replacement components I put in are of poor quality and that’s causing the pedal to behave funky?
Chattering – I will definitely look into those mounts. As far as poor surfacing of the flywheel – I suppose it’s possible, but I had him put a new one in, rather than resurfacing it. Same goes with all the other clutch components. I found the tranny mount which listed support for my car, but when I looked up the engine mounts it doesn’t list my car; would the engine mounts for an 02 WRX definitely fit my 01 Forester?
Joel
Looks like the hill holder wasn’t available till ’03 and I don’t see a fork return spring listed for that model. So you most likely do need to re-bleed the system. It’s tricky you need to remove the slave from the bellhousing, remove the dust boot and rod and clamp the slave full compressed using a socket and a C-clamp. Then have an assistant slowly push the pedal down with the bleeder open. Once it’s down close the bleeder and slowly return the pedal back up. Watch the level in the reservoir – it should drop about 1/4″. If it doesn’t pump the pedal up and down with the bleeder closed then stop and wait for the level to drop. Do this a couple times till you don’t get any more air from the bleeder. And you need to put the pedal assist spring back on. It pulls the pedal all the way up and refills the fluid chamber of the master for the next stroke. It’s important to the self adjustment of the system.
The mounts are the same. Here’s the part numbers:
D1010FE110
D1010FE120
D1010FE020Rick
Rick,
Thank you. I will order the parts and hopefully report back within a couple weeks granted I get some time to work on it.
I bled the clutch system (took forever because the master got air bound and I didn’t know that was a thing), and it took probably 80% of the violent chattering & shaking away.
So, I figured I’d start next with the tranny mount and hope that takes even more of the chatter away. It did improve the shifting (especially downshifting), and moderately improved driveline lash, but there was still some chattering going on.
I was starting to get really happy at the thought of having a derivable vehicle (my truck, which my wife drives is also in all sorts of disrepair). Well, just last night I went on a quick drive (1/4 to 1/2 mi) and the clutch started slipping. Just confirmed this morning before going to work, I can put it in first gear with the handbrake on, and it doesn’t even bog… Everything in that clutch assembly is new and was replaced by that shop 5,300 mi ago.
The new stiffer tranny mount couldn’t do this, could it?
P.S. I couldn’t find the second pin to the assist spring for the clutch pedal, so that’s not back in yet.
No the stiffer trans mount cannot cause slipping.
What brand of clutch was used? We use exclusively Exedy (OEM) or Competition Clutch (for high performance).
Sounds like you need to check into the work this shop did and the clutch they used. Slippage on a brand new clutch sounds like poor quality parts or seriously improper installation.
The other possibility is a drive axle that’s not fully seated in the rear differential. This will cause a “clutch slipping” type of feeling but it’s not. It’s the center viscous coupler slipping.
Rick
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.