Home › Forums › Stay Dirty Lounge › Service and Repair Questions Answered Here › 2001 nissan altima high idle after warmup
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December 30, 2015 at 10:49 am #847771
I have 2001 nissan altima auto,4 cyl ,85k and the idle is at 1400-1300 rpm during startup, it goes down to 1100-1200 rpm after warmup,,normally it should be in 800-750 rpm,, i cleaned the idle air control valve and adjust the idle screw and also i replaced PVC valve but no changes,,,any suggestion is greatly appreciated,thanks
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January 3, 2016 at 10:34 am #848114
“Boyet” post=155620]I saw the middle leverage moved slightly from cold start to warmup,
[color=#ff4400]But did the idle arm stop come to rest on the adjustment screw?
Is there any rust or corrosion that might be binding the spring assembly or any other parts from moving freely?[/color]
can I adjust the screw (with the red arrow) ,to see if the idle goes down? ”
[color=#ff4400]You could but ….
99.9 times out of 100 that adjustment screw has not moved.
The issue (maybe) what is preventing the idle arm stop from coming to rest onto the idle adjustment screw[/color]also btw I got p0420 engine code , this came out suddenly(not sure if because I cleaned the idle air control valve?) thx
[color=#ff4400]There are a number of things that could be causing this p0420 catalyst efficiency code. The most common thing is the catalytic converter itself is no longer functioning properly. The other likely thing is the rear O2 (oxygen) sensor is no longer working properly. Other things could include exhaust leaks, damaged exhaust pipes, damaged O2 sensor wiring/connectors, plugged catalytic converter, etc.The easiest thing to do first is a visual check of things. Visually inspect the exhaust system for leaks, check the catalytic converter for dents, holes, severe discoloration, and check for a rattle inside. If any of those symptoms are there, the converter likely needs replacement. Then, visually inspect the downstream O2 sensor (behind the converter). Check for broken wires, obvious faults, etc. If all that checks out, you’ll want to check the operation of the O2 sensor. To do that, you’ll need access to a scan tool or oscilloscope. Check that the waveform is pretty steady. If the reading fluctuates then the sensor is likely bad and will need to be replaced.[/color]
(the upstream o2 sensor maybe the culprit? still original part 88K miles) thank you.
Read my response aboveJanuary 4, 2016 at 5:20 am #848199I need to take care of this engine code first, which of the catalytic converter as you referring to? Is it the pre-cat where the 1st o2 sensor is and located after the exhaust manifold) or the other cOnverter (after the flex pipe ) and (before the second o2 sensor)? Thx
January 4, 2016 at 11:48 am #848235Is this correct for your exhaust system?
If so
#4 is called a pre-converter and the #1 O2 sensor is located in the exhaust manifold.
#6 is called Resonator and pipe ( not an cat converter )
As to your question:
The O2 sensor to check ,will be beyond the flex pipe.
And #4 is the cat you have to inspectAttachments:January 4, 2016 at 8:19 pm #848259Im in New York,but my vehicle has a California emission and has secondary catalytic converter(diagram no.6)
Attachments:January 4, 2016 at 9:27 pm #848264Well then,
You have twice as many chances then… :unsure:
But the O2 sensor you need to look at would be after your second cat.
If it turns out to be a faulty cat …..
You’ll need to do some testing then to determine which, if not both are defective.
Hopefully you get lucky with just a bad O2 sensorJanuary 8, 2016 at 7:39 am #848522I changed the o2 sensor rear about 4 days ago using my old one cuz the new one i bought from ebay is the one giving me this p0420 code and i couldnt believed that its brand new and it went bad after 900 miles on it,,,so far the engine light hasnt come back yet after drving 98 miles on it,,, usually i will get this light on every 15-25 miles. So hopefully that is the problem,many thanks to you nighflr !
Lemme go back to my other problem on “high idle stays at 1100-1200 rpm after warmup”, its look like the idle cam arm is resting to the adjustment screw , is it advisable to touch the adjustment screw? Also what did moved on the pics,,2 spring coils top and bottom,i called them spring coils but probably they are some kind of thermistor coils? Thank you
engine just turn on,,,cold startSee the rust part area has moved,im not sure which coil did that ? Top or bottom coil (spring)?
Engine running After warmup (1100-1200 rpm)
Attachments:January 8, 2016 at 7:43 am #848525First pic ( the one with the rust) was taken at cold start(1500-1650 rpm) and the 2nd pic(rust part covered) was taken during warmup and reached the normal temp / idle around 1100-1200 rpm)
Attachments:January 8, 2016 at 8:05 am #848528[quote=”Boyet” post=156040][/quote] this pic taken while engine is running at idle (warmup) 1100-1200 rpm
January 8, 2016 at 10:37 am #848533Ok ..
First thing…
Clean and lubricate that assembly.
Way too much corrosion.I tweaked one of your pics
You have to see that the back of the idle cam is resting on the tip of the adjustment screw when the engine is warm.
Looks like you have to remove the air intake off the throttle body and may need a mirror to get a good look.
I also see a wire loom directly under the linkage in your picture.
Make sure that it is not interfering with the idle cam movement.is it advisable to touch the adjustment screw? You can but, I’ve yet to see one loosen up to where it affect the idle.
Also what did moved on the pics,,2 spring coils top and bottom,i called them spring coils but probably they are some kind of thermistor coils? Thank you
The top spring(which is just a spring) is part of the thermostatic control, the bottom spring is just that a tension spring.I know it tough to explain without detailed pictures..
If this doesn’t make sense, my 3.3L V6 has a similar setup.
I can do a quick video if you need to show how the setup operates.Attachments:January 8, 2016 at 11:04 am #848534Hi,so in order to clean it, i have to remove the trottle body assembly,correct? And what specific area that needs lubrication and what kind of lubricant? Thanks
January 8, 2016 at 11:22 am #848535[quote=”Boyet” post=156049]Hi,so in order to clean it, i have to remove the trottle body assembly,correct? And what specific area that needs lubrication and what kind of lubricant? Thanks[/quote]
No, you can clean it up with out removing it.
Just spray it down with carb cleaner and use a brush to get the crust and rust off, then use a good lubricant on all the moving linkages and springs.
You can use pretty much any decent spray lube, WD 40, PB Blaster, even some clean motor oil will be better than nothing.January 9, 2016 at 2:02 am #848566You seem like you’re in really good hands here so I’ll just add this article I wrote about solving idle issues. It also contains some videos you may find helpful.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-idle-problems
As for the P0420 diagnosis.
Please keep us updated on your progress.
January 9, 2016 at 3:18 am #848588yeah ,p0420 has been solved and many thanks to nighflr
About the idle issue is pretty much the same, I cleaned and lubricated and still about 1100-1200 rpm at normal temperature. I tried to see if the iacv valve is working and it seems responding, it goes up around 1100 to 1500 rpm when I I tried to adjust it.
January 9, 2016 at 3:33 am #848590Did you check to see if the idle cam is coming to rest on the tip of the adjusting screw?
January 9, 2016 at 4:31 am #848597Yeap, it did
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