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I posted a few months back on this car. I just now have gotten an opportunity to get it back together.
I am a bit perplexed at the moment.
I did the following. Replace timing chain gears and tensioners, oil pump, and water pump.
The car ran before the work but had the infamous Nissan lower guide rattle.
Anyways I had an issue when removing the cam gears as they are torqued to about 9,000,000 foot pounds and the cam actually rolled on me when I was removing the gears. (The upper and lower chain were already removed so the cam spun separately from the crank).
I reset the crank to TDC according to the timing marks and a dowel rod on the piston, and reset the cams to tdc according to the cam lobes facing directly out when on tdc of compression stroke.
I assembled everything so that the Marks on the cam gears lined up with the marks on the center idler gear and the marks on the center idle gear matched to the crank gear. In essence all marks on the chain lined up to all the marks on the gears.
Anyways Finally got everything assembled and attempted to start the car have a crank no start.I have fuel I can smell it on the plugs.
A Dry extremely cold compression test came back from 145-150 across all 4 cylinders Not bad considering it was 7 degrees outside and the engine hadn’t even been spun over since October.
I am failing a spark test. I only have an air gap tester but I am showing no spark at all. Running from any plug, I have grounded to 3 different places and still showing nothing.
So I guess my question is the following, should I be looking more towards a distributor problem no spark or more towards a timing problem.
My thought is improper timing would still give spark just at the wrong time (or I have heard that it is possible to be so far out of time that the distributor won’t spark at all).
Or should I be looking more towards faulty distributor/ cap /rotor/ ignition coil?
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Still no spark, however I went outside set cylinder 1 to tdc verified both intake and exhaust valve were closed and that the rotor was pointed at cylinder 1
I’m assuming you are not seeing any codes. Not sure if this will help, but the FSM can be found here:
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Altima/2001/
there are a number of troubleshooting chants in the ec.pdf file.I think the crank angle sensor is in the distributor, but I would think if that was bud, you would not be getting any injector pulses.
I would recheck any wiring you removed and replaced during the work you did.Hope this helps…
If you’re sure you’ve got everything back in time mechanically, I would turn my attention to all the other electrical connections you need to worry about with a job like that. Once connector not fully seated, say on a crank or cam sensor, can cause an issue like you’re having. You might also check to see if you have an RPM reading when you crank the engine on a scan tool. If you don’t have one, look to the wiring and sensors I mentioned. If you do, then I would start looking at the ignition system.
More info on solving these problems here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-no-start-problems
Good luck and keep us posted.
see if this helps with the diagnoses.
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/nissan/2.4L/altima-power-transistor-test-1
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/nissan/2.4L/altima-cam-sensor-test-1
Well had the cam and crank sensor plugs backwards easy mistake they are the same shape and color. She runs but rough and only with the distributor fully advanced. At fully advance I am idling at 16 deg btdc. FSM says spec should be 18-22 btdc.
Is there anyway to fix this without pulling the engine again? I maybe a tooth off somewhere.
[quote=”SigSaurP228″ post=128875]Well had the cam and crank sensor plugs backwards easy mistake they are the same shape and color. She runs but rough and only with the distributor fully advanced. At fully advance I am idling at 16 deg btdc. FSM says spec should be 18-22 btdc.
Is there anyway to fix this without pulling the engine again? I maybe a tooth off somewhere.[/quote]
When you checked ignition timing, did you unplug the throttle position sensor? the procedure
wants you to warm the engine up to full operating temp. Then unplug the tps and read ignition
timing and adjust as necessary.Decision Time
I can keep pushing forward, but I am pretty sure I am going to have to pull this engine anyways (its the only way to adjust the timing by a tooth).
Or
I found an identical engine with 80k less miles 191k currently to 118k For $450
I wanted to come back and say thanks to everyone for the help.
I did have to pull the engine again, timing was off a tooth on the crank the engine would run only with the distributor fully advanced. Anyone who has ever done a timing chain on one of these vehicles knows it is an absolute nightmare of a job. Pulled the engine reset to TDC and she fired right up. I now get to do the final adjustment.
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