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This Sonata will be the death of me. I have been working on my friends car, it will run for a week then a new problem. Quick recap, started with transmission speed sensor, then spark plugs and cable, then crankshaft position sensor, then the inner timing belt then onto a P0300 code a few weeks later, found the coil on plug setup was throwing sparks from the outside. Replaced them.
Now the car died, all electronics went dead. Car an be jumped, also the battery will gain a full charge using a charger over night, car will start, battery seems to hold 11.9v while car is running. Took it out for a drive, got back died again. Took off the alternator, had three auto stores test it, all said the alternator is working just fine. I have checked all the fuses, even the fuse between the alternator and battery. I see no corosion or issues on the battery, the grounds all seem to be in place. I took out the ECU cleaned the terminals to make sure there was no issue there. Still all the same problems. So after cleaning and tightening and double checking everything. I am out of ideas, I dont want to throw parts at this car so we are holding off on a new alternator because the stores said the part was fine. But if the battery can be fully charged overnight I would assume the battery is ok. Any ideas? What could be causing this issue in the charging system.
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ECM fuse 10 supplies battery voltage to the charge warning indicator. With the engine not running and the ignition switch in ON , terminal L of the regulator is grounded internally and the indicator lights up. A small amount of current provided by both the charge warning lamp and the pre-excitation resistor is used to “excite” the magnetic field windings to start the charging process.
Is your battery light turns on?? If the resistor is burnt.. it’s a component like an alternator.. it may prevent the alternator of operating.
Just my 2 cent.
I checked all the fuses, they all seem good. The “Battery” light icon does come on. Eventually the battery will just drain out completely. I am so confused where to look to even find the source. I have to fix this before I can even get back to the first problem with was the P0300 issue. Where can I find this resistor?
Check in the passager compartment junction block (same block as fuse 10 which should be 10 amp) its call pre-exitation resistor.
I didnt even think about looking under the dash. I will take a look at this as soon as I get off work. This has been one heck of a journey all started with trying to get my friends car to pass emissions. Once I get this charging system issue taken care of we still have to find out why it keeps misfiring with all new plugs, cables and coils.
Don’t forget to also check the battery. If the battery is bad, the charging system will not be able to keep up. Static voltage on a charged battery should be 12.6 or above. The electrical system of the vehicle starts and ends with the battery. More info here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-electrical-problems
Good luck and keep us posted.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=96657]Don’t forget to also check the battery. If the battery is bad, the charging system will not be able to keep up. Static voltage on a charged battery should be 12.6 or above. The electrical system of the vehicle starts and ends with the battery. More info here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-electrical-problems
Good luck and keep us posted.[/quote]
When the battery was last hooked to a wall charger we did get enough charge to get the car started and take it for a drive. when we got back from the drive and tried turning on the lights and all the fun gizmos in the car thats when the battery died. It started up and went to 11.9v and held that for a while then eventually died out. Would the battery still charge on a wall charger if it was no good?
Sounds like you need a battery. You might want to test it. You ALWAYS start at the battery when dealing with an electrical issue.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-electrical-problems
Good luck.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=96699]Sounds like you need a battery. You might want to test it. You ALWAYS start at the battery when dealing with an electrical issue.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-electrical-problems
Good luck.[/quote]
We will test that tonight, he has two other cars so I am guessing if we switch out a battery and it runs as normal that should also be a sign its the bettery? Its only two years old, so I didnt even think. But I guess its always something simple and overlooked.
You always start with the battery when you have an electrical problem. Just as it says in the article I posted for you. That said, you may not be able to swap one battery for another. Batteries are designed to work with the vehicle. If you put in the wrong battery, it’s the same as having a bad battery. The battery is the alpha and the omega of the electrical system. If it’s not right, nothing is right.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=96801]You always start with the battery when you have an electrical problem. Just as it says in the article I posted for you. That said, you may not be able to swap one battery for another. Batteries are designed to work with the vehicle. If you put in the wrong battery, it’s the same as having a bad battery. The battery is the alpha and the omega of the electrical system. If it’s not right, nothing is right.[/quote]
Took the battery to be tested. Was holding 0% charge and the guy at the store noticed the warranty sticker for Walmart and told us to go see if we can get a new one. So good news we got a free replacement. Bad news. Charging system light stayed on car was running at 11.9v after we turned it on. So back to could it be the alternator or the computer? We cleaned the terminals but they didn’t look nasty. Still same issues. I’m stumped.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=96801]You always start with the battery when you have an electrical problem. Just as it says in the article I posted for you. That said, you may not be able to swap one battery for another. Batteries are designed to work with the vehicle. If you put in the wrong battery, it’s the same as having a bad battery. The battery is the alpha and the omega of the electrical system. If it’s not right, nothing is right.[/quote]
So we took the battery to be tested, was putting out 11.9v but was taking 0% charge so thankfully the guy at the store was honest when he noticed the warranty sticker was still good for walmart. we took the battery there and got it swapped for free and even got $12 core charge back. But bad news, was not the underline problem. I work for Toyota but in sales, so I called down to our service dept and we had the car looked at. Was the alternator, spitting correct volts zero amps. So I will be swapping that out this weekend. The wonderful discount the provided was $500… yeah. No, I will swap it out for the cost of a pizza and six pack. So I will keep posted if this solves the problem.
Question, can a bad alternator trigger a misfire?
Sounds like you’re making progress. I cover alternator testing as well as solving electrical issues like this in this article.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-electrical-problems
Keep us posted.
Omg… So we switch out the alternator start it up. Perfect, take it out for a few mile drive and it ran better than it’s ever. The next my friends wife is driving and the car just died. She said she heard a “clank” and the car shut off and it won’t turn over. Has power all electronics work but it’s making a strange sound when trying to start. It’s an almost winding sound as it tries to turn over.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=97048]Sounds like you’re making progress. I cover alternator testing as well as solving electrical issues like this in this article.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-electrical-problems
Keep us posted.[/quote]
Would a timing belt break leave the car making a “whiring” noise? The car is attempting to turn over I can hear the pulleys turn but it sounds kind of hollow and just wont do anything. I assume it had to be something bad to make the car just shut off. But the electrical power never went off.
Very hard to say without hearing the nose. Information on finding noises can be found here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/diagnosing-noises-in-your-car
Information on no starts can be found here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-no-start-problems
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