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As far as diagnostic steps idk. transmissions arent my strong suit. but i would start with the TRS. But its probaly going to be a mechanical problem. As far as the miles and fluid change it depends on wether the previous owner kept up on its maintaince schedule. I know if you do a fluid flush for the time over 80000 miles that can definelty cause the slips. if thats the case then you will have to replace it.but i would definetly check all possibilties first before going to a shop. sorry i couldnt be of more help
Those transmissions weren’t really known for problems so if it’s having one it’s likely that the transmision is faulty especially if you don’t have any codes stored. Check the fluid level and condition and if it’s at the proper level, if it is then there is little else you can do without a proper set of trans pressure gauges and a service manual, there really aren’t any ‘tricks’ to transmission diagnosis. It’s also important to note that you need to make sure you use Honda fluid only in that transmission and check the level with the trans hot and the engine off. Good luck.
I certainly don’t mean to question you Eric, but honda has you check the fluid level with the engine off? Thanks for that tip no matter what happens with this thread! 🙂
I to was unaware that you check honda transmission with the engine off. Thanks for the tip, just go to show we learn something new everyday.
That is a new tip. Does it apply to other brands/odels too? I usually check my tranny fluid engine on, parked, operating temp
No Honda’s are special in this reguard, I can’t tell you how many Honda transmissions I’ve seen killed as a result of checking the fluid incorrectly or using the wrong fluid, not only will you get the level wrong but the moving parts can also grab hold of the dip stick and mangle it to heck and gone. NEVER check a Honda automatic transmission with the engine running.
The owners manual for my 2008 Civic is very specific in that you check ATF level after waiting 30 seconds after shutting engine off but before 90 seconds has elasped. Weird.
I noticed that my Haynes book shows how to check the shift and clutch solenoids for proper continuity and also for a consistent audible click when supplying 12 volts to it. Can someone tell me the proper steps to supplying power to a component? The book says to use a fused jumper wire, but my jumper wires are just plain wires with clips on both ends and no fuse. I don’t have a powerprobe or the money for one, so I’ll have to go with the old school method.
All I know is that I need to disconnect the writing harness to the component and disconnect the car battery. Other than that, I don’t know how to do the actual connection safely and how to make a FUSED jumper wire.
Thanks!!
My fused jumper wire in an inline fuse holder from Autozone. You can buy the ATC style or the ATM style inline fuse holders and used the desired amp fuse as needed. You may also need to attach some clips on the end of the wires to be able attach to the prongs inside the connectors.
Google is your friend 🙂
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