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Was the IAC a OEM honda part?
If not you may have a problem with it again.
But first check for vacuum leaks.What are the RPM’s at when your in park?
Is this stalling only happening when there is an electrical load on the engine (brake light being on while stationary as an example)?
All parts have been OEM,
No leaks detected,
Engine is a 3.0 V6If Im sitting in traffic or a drive through, the car is in gear and at rest with brakes depressed. The car is idling at about 750-800 RPM. When I’ve been sitting in that condition for more than 2 or 3 minutes, the idle drops out so low the car tries to stall. I can keep that from happening if I catch it before it stalls and put the car in park. The idle then picks back up, I put it back in drive and play the game over again.
All parts have been OEM,
No leaks detected,
Engine is a 3.0 V6If Im sitting in traffic or a drive through, the car is in gear and at rest with brakes depressed. The car is idling at about 750-800 RPM. When I’ve been sitting in that condition for more than 2 or 3 minutes, the idle drops out so low the car tries to stall. I can keep that from happening if I catch it before it stalls and put the car in park. The idle then picks back up, I put it back in drive and play the game over again.
It’s very common for the IAC valves on those engines to cause that issue but since you’ve replaced it with an OE part it should be OK. Be sure it was installed correctly, if not there could be a vacuum leak that might be causing a problem for you. In fact you might want to check for vacuum leaks just for good measure. Also, do you have any check engine lights on?
It’s very common for the IAC valves on those engines to cause that issue but since you’ve replaced it with an OE part it should be OK. Be sure it was installed correctly, if not there could be a vacuum leak that might be causing a problem for you. In fact you might want to check for vacuum leaks just for good measure. Also, do you have any check engine lights on?
That’s not likely to cause a stalling problem as those are just there for catalytic converter monitoring. I still stick by my IAC theory. It’s a very common issue on that engine. Cleaning often does no good. I usually replace them when I come across that issue.
That’s not likely to cause a stalling problem as those are just there for catalytic converter monitoring. I still stick by my IAC theory. It’s a very common issue on that engine. Cleaning often does no good. I usually replace them when I come across that issue.
So i replaced the IAC valve and the stalling in idle problem went away. However, now my car idles very poorly, for starters.
:angry:
Problem 1: When I come to a stop wether in traffic or at a stop sign, the engine idles down to about 300rpm almost stalling, then fluctuates between 300-500rpm.Problem 2: Since I replaced the IAC valve, the car also idles down so low when shifting from park to reverse, park to drive or any combo of positions that the car stalls out. Usually only when the engine is cold.
So i replaced the IAC valve and the stalling in idle problem went away. However, now my car idles very poorly, for starters.
:angry:
Problem 1: When I come to a stop wether in traffic or at a stop sign, the engine idles down to about 300rpm almost stalling, then fluctuates between 300-500rpm.Problem 2: Since I replaced the IAC valve, the car also idles down so low when shifting from park to reverse, park to drive or any combo of positions that the car stalls out. Usually only when the engine is cold.
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