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Great video series, Eric. I enjoyed all of it, particularly the poor man’s injector cleaner and the sealing around the transitions where gaskets tend to leak. I learned alot, thank you!
Gah!
I was settling in to watch part 5 and saw that you’d pulled it! Or at least, that’s hat YouTube claimed.
Hope all is okay!
-Hinoki
[quote=”Hinoki” post=68831]Gah!
I was settling in to watch part 5 and saw that you’d pulled it! Or at least, that’s hat YouTube claimed.
Hope all is okay!
-Hinoki[/quote]
There are still issues with YouTube. As soon as it’s resolved the video will go live. Sorry for the inconvenience.
Hey Eric, I have watched the S 10 series from the beginning and it sure has been quite the experience. You wouldn’t think a 4 cyl re & re could be such a pain and I’m sure you know now that pulling the trans with the engine would have been easier. I have done that before myself and lining up the splines in the clutch is really hard to do as there is NO tolerance at all, it has to be right on the money to slip in.
I think you will find that the worst is over with and I hope the rest goes smoothly for you. It’s a little frustrating to watch sometimes and I really wish I could be with you to help. I hate to watch people struggle.
I hope the cheap 1950s technology pan gasket doesn’t slip out and leak oil on you. I would have used silicone before using cork but I suppose a good gasket would have put the price of the gasket set much higher. I guess that all comes with experience.
In closing, keep up the great work and I look forward to watching the jobs completion.
I’m sure we’ll all be talking and laughing about the video that ETCG took so long to post one day. Stupid YouTube.
I am loving the Sonoma series and was very happy to get my latest fix (part 5) this evening. I just recently wrestled a 5.4 L V8 triton motor onto a big 4R100 transmission. 2 big heavy objects that just won’t go together. Load leveler helped but I had to really choke up on the chain because I was hitting the body of the vehicle on the top side. I have mated a manual transmission (4 speed toyota celica transmission to a 20R motor) up to an engine one time in my life and that was enough. I was convinced that you really need a good transmission jack with all the angle adjustments to do it without the frustration. When my mustang needed a clutch it went straight to the local tranny expert. Best 700 bucks I have ever spent.
Got to say that this series in your video forum is brilliant.
You must have the patience of a saint.I understand full well the frustrations you’ve had.
I only mananged to put my car back together on Friday afternoon after it blew an exhaust valve about 10 days before.
After spending more money on gaskets and seals than it actually did to repair the cylinder head, i was a bit miffed when in the end it wouldn’t start.
It was only until after i cleaned down the crank pulley wheel and the two cam pulleys that i realised that there were extra marks on them.
I suppose its a lesson learnt and i should always check, and recheck, for anything like that in the future.
In the meantime i’ve had to have it go to my local mechanic to sort out.Anyway.
Keep up the good work as you are doing a fantastic job and i only wish i had the knowledge and understanding of cars like you do.
I can’t wait until the next installment and i am waiting, very patiently for it.[quote=”chomerly” post=69177]Got to say that this series in your video forum is brilliant.
You must have the patience of a saint.I understand full well the frustrations you’ve had.
I only mananged to put my car back together on Friday afternoon after it blew an exhaust valve about 10 days before.
After spending more money on gaskets and seals than it actually did to repair the cylinder head, i was a bit miffed when in the end it wouldn’t start.
It was only until after i cleaned down the crank pulley wheel and the two cam pulleys that i realised that there were extra marks on them.
I suppose its a lesson learnt and i should always check, and recheck, for anything like that in the future.
In the meantime i’ve had to have it go to my local mechanic to sort out.Anyway.
Keep up the good work as you are doing a fantastic job and i only wish i had the knowledge and understanding of cars like you do.
I can’t wait until the next installment and i am waiting, very patiently for it.[/quote]I think anyone who has ever picked up a wrench has felt that frustration. Glad you got your sorted out. Thanks very much for your comments on my work. I really appreciate it.
Is part 5 the final installment? I have found that when ETCG does a series, it is less painful to wait for the whole thing to be uploaded & watch it all in one long sitting than to wait week-by-week.
Someone mentioned Flex Fuel on these. When I had mine, I often had to use AllData to fix it (S-10’s are junk) & I found out that if the 8th digit of the VIN is a 5, that’s your 2.2L Flex Fueler.
I wish y’all would yell SPOILER ALERT at the start of your comments. Jerks. :angry:
-KiddingEric, did you happen to get a decent view of the Passenger side of the Bell housing? When I did my Throw Out bearing, I found a bar-code label that said “Muncie” on it.
For those unfamiliar, Muncie was the Brand name used in 60’s & 70’s GM Muscle. Ever heard of a ’70 Chevelle SS 454 LS6 (RPO Code, not “LS” like modern PCM shyt)? They had the Muncie M-22 Close Ratio “Rock Crusher” in them. There was also an M-21, which I believe has Wide Ratio gears.Anyways, I was just wondering if this was the final installment so that I can start watching.
Long as I’m here: Great new site layout, Eric! It kicks much ass! Already had to come here in a pinch looking for a couple of pieces of info for some cars. I love the quick links feature. It’s set up much like AllData, Mitchell, or Dealer SI systems. KUDOS!
[quote=”Chevypower” post=69433]Is part 5 the final installment? I have found that when ETCG does a series, it is less painful to wait for the whole thing to be uploaded & watch it all in one long sitting than to wait week-by-week.
Someone mentioned Flex Fuel on these. When I had mine, I often had to use AllData to fix it (S-10’s are junk) & I found out that if the 8th digit of the VIN is a 5, that’s your 2.2L Flex Fueler.
I wish y’all would yell SPOILER ALERT at the start of your comments. Jerks. :angry:
-KiddingEric, did you happen to get a decent view of the Passenger side of the Bell housing? When I did my Throw Out bearing, I found a bar-code label that said “Muncie” on it.
For those unfamiliar, Muncie was the Brand name used in 60’s & 70’s GM Muscle. Ever heard of a ’70 Chevelle SS 454 LS6 (RPO Code, not “LS” like modern PCM shyt)? They had the Muncie M-22 Close Ratio “Rock Crusher” in them. There was also an M-21, which I believe has Wide Ratio gears.Anyways, I was just wondering if this was the final installment so that I can start watching.
Long as I’m here: Great new site layout, Eric! It kicks much ass! Already had to come here in a pinch looking for a couple of pieces of info for some cars. I love the quick links feature. It’s set up much like AllData, Mitchell, or Dealer SI systems. KUDOS![/quote]
I’m working on the edit for the last Sonoma video tomorrow. It will be 8 parts, 9 if you include the epilogue.
I did not notice anything on the bell housing, I was more focused on getting the engine done at the time. I’m sure I’ll see the truck again at some point though.
I’m glad you like the site. We put a lot of thought and effort into it and it’s great that my vision is paying off and helping people find answers.
As a non-mechanic a maybe – obviously – stupid question:
Why not just remove the whole front of the car to get the engine out and back in? If there is any welding between the sides and the front the idea is of course more than shitty but after watching one of the latest videos from supercarhall on the production of the the new Merc S-Class I could see that somewhere in the production process the front (of this car) is wide open.
The front suspension shouldn’t be a problem on a big (well, at least bigger than a sedan) truck with enough space in the engine bay.
Just wondering if that is an option at all or a very very stupid idea :side:
[quote=”lars_original” post=69607]As a non-mechanic a maybe – obviously – stupid question:
Why not just remove the whole front of the car to get the engine out and back in? If there is any welding between the sides and the front the idea is of course more than shitty but after watching one of the latest videos from supercarhall on the production of the the new Merc S-Class I could see that somewhere in the production process the front (of this car) is wide open.
The front suspension shouldn’t be a problem on a big (well, at least bigger than a sedan) truck with enough space in the engine bay.
Just wondering if that is an option at all or a very very stupid idea :side:[/quote]
The way I did it is not the only way but I felt the easiest way outside of pulling the trans with the engine. I have done it that way but in this case I thought leaving the front clip and AC condenser in place was the way to go as I did not want to open the AC system which would have created more work.
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