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Please advise me if this is in the incorrect forum area. My Son has a 2001 Ford Taurus with a 3.0L engine that quit running just when entering the parking lot of my Apt. when he pulled into the driveway. I checked the fuel pump for sound in the on position and it is working. Right now it’s a crank-no start issue but I did have a slight start-up at one time when I tried it again but quit and back to a C-No Start again. It did this same thing is Colorado going up in the mountains back in Feb. After sitting for 30 minutes, it started again and actually ran all the way back to Denver with no problems. It’s kinda doing the same thing again. Any possible things to try ? I’ve heard of a lot of things from Crankshaft position sensor to coolant temp sensor issues. Haven’t checked for spark or any other things as of yet. Thanks for your time.
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I am no expert but i have had several Ford Taurus cars and with that exact same problem. It was Vaccum lines to the MAP sensor that were bad ?
When the car died in your driveway, was it after a long “road trip” kind of drive, (I’m assuming the Colorado mountain incident was that kind of drive), or was it just a short commuter hop?
I’ve never seen a MAP sensor or its vacuum line cause a no-start. Not to say it can’t happen, but I’ve never seen it. Nor have I seen an ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor cause a no-start. Usually when the ECT goes bad the engine just runs rich because the computer sees the engine as cold all the time.
I would be suspecting the ignition isn’t working. There are two types of ignition systems used in your vehicle model. A coil pack with traditional spark plug wires (VIN codes S or 2), and a coil-over-plug design (VIN code U). I am going to assume yours has the coil pack, as they were the most widely used. Unless you tell me differently. The two main causes of this are a faulty crankshaft position sensor or faulty coil pack. A no-start condition is common when there is a failure of the coil pack due to age or cracks in the housing allowing moisture entry into the pack.
The engine computer only pulses the fuel injectors and fires spark with a good signal from the crank position sensor. Using a ‘noid light’ (fuel injection test light), or a standard 12v test light, you can check for light pulses at the fuel injectors. If the light pulses on and off as the engine is cranking, the crankshaft position sensor is good, because the computer is recognizing its signal and commanding the fuel injectors to open and close. A spark tester or screwdriver can be used similarly to test for spark, but the fuel injector light test is safer (less risk of electrical shock).
[quote=”Evil-i” post=141435]When the car died in your driveway, was it after a long “road trip” kind of drive, (I’m assuming the Colorado mountain incident was that kind of drive), or was it just a short commuter hop?[/quote]Just from a 2 mile drive this time. I was thinking 02 sensor because why would it stall at a high altitude like that in CO. ? My cousin that works on cars for a hobby out there said the same thing when he ran a code scan on it and it only showed a high fuel pump circuit code. I changed the fuel pump in December ’14 because i bought it for my kid with it out. So we figured it was possibly because the pump was bad the first time and the code was never cleared. For reference there’s 207,000 mi. on it. Note: There’s no vacuum hoses to the MAF sensor. Never heard of that.
I asked about the trip length because I was entertaining the idea of ignition coil break down when hot. Stalling after chugging up steep slopes in the first incident, and then starting again after a 30 minute rest and cool down, had me thinking that could have been the case. But, given the short trip length this time, it seems much less likely, unless the coils have suddenly become much worse with the onset of summer heat.
Has the car started again since you first posted?
I really don’t think the 02 sensor would be your problem, especially not for the reasons you mentioned. Would it be possible to access any stored codes?
There is a fuel pump module underneath the back rear seat.What brand fuel pump did you install in 2014?If an Airtex,there is the problem and Airtex has very high failure rates since it is an aftermarket fuel pump.Ford uses Bosch and Walbro fuel pumps from the factory.
I was thinking that an 02 sensor problem wouldn’t necessarily cause a stall out situation. More for a miss or rough idle, maybe.
[quote=”Evil-i” post=141463]I asked about the trip length because I was entertaining the idea of ignition coil break down when hot. Stalling after chugging up steep slopes in the first incident, and then starting again after a 30 minute rest and cool down, had me thinking that could have been the case. But, given the short trip length this time, it seems much less likely, unless the coils have suddenly become much worse with the onset of summer heat.
Has the car started again since you first posted?
I really don’t think the 02 sensor would be your problem, especially not for the reasons you mentioned. Would it be possible to access any stored codes?[/quote]Not at the time. My friend down the street has a code scanner but he’s out of town. I should invest in one. A handy little tool for those kind of issues. No I haven’t tried to start it again since. It’s downstairs outside in the stall yet where we pushed it to. I have the keys tho.
[quote=”wafrederick” post=141464]There is a fuel pump module underneath the back rear seat.What brand fuel pump did you install in 2014?If an Airtex,there is the problem and Airtex has very high failure rates since it is an aftermarket fuel pump.Ford uses Bosch and Walbro fuel pumps from the factory.[/quote]I don”t remember actually. I got it from an eBay seller. You can hear the pump coming on tho. Whether there’s good pressure or not…good question. AS noted above, it did stumble a little when I tried starting it again after I came down to help him push it into the stall. The tach did also bump when I turned it on and over. The compression sounded good on it by the cranking sound as well. Let me try a few things and see what I come up with. Better get it first than start spending money on a wild goose chase and still getting nothing. Thanks for your time everyone.
[quote=”cap269″ post=141436]I’ve never seen a MAP sensor or its vacuum line cause a no-start.[/quote]
You’re correct, there is no vacuum line on a MAF sensor. BUT, I said MAP sensor, which DOES have a vacuum line, and that was in response to NT’s post.
To sum it all up I think we’re back to the bad fuel pump issue. I got it started by pumping it and it did exactly what it did in Co. Backfired a few times under the hood and was jugging and after a few more times finally started. You can hear the pump running and it’s loud from outside the car and thru the back seat. It’s also louder than it was when you turn the key to the on position. There possibly may be a piece dirt or something stuck in it as to why it’s loud when it’s running is what I think may be happening and it may be heating up and shutting down, but that wouldn’t cause a no start issue I wouldn’t think when it’s cold. The fuel pump relay may be getting hot when it was shutting down. There’s also a misfire in reverse which is really strange because it’s only in reverse, not drive. This has been going on since We got it running in Dec after the new pump installation. No idea what that would be, especially in reverse only !?. It may misfire once in a while in drive I should say. It was sitting for a year before I replaced the pump, FYI. Thanks for your comments.
[quote=”cap269″ post=141471][quote=”cap269″ post=141436]I’ve never seen a MAP sensor or its vacuum line cause a no-start.[/quote]
You’re correct, there is no vacuum line on a MAF sensor. BUT, I said MAP sensor, which DOES have a vacuum line, and that was in response to NT’s post.[/quote]I see that now. My mistake.
Honestly, I think you could well be putting yourself on the path of shooting in the dark and changing components on the whim of the moment. Now that you’ve told us there’s a misfire issue as well, I’m recommending you have the codes pulled and read. It could save you money and hassle.
You could also have a hole or split in the tube that connects the pump to the rest of the assembly so that the fuel is just recirculating in the tank instead of providing full flow to the rest of the system. A fuel pressure test will give you an indication of your fuel system’s health.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1L4nB2NdA0U – coolant temp sensor causes no start. Coincidentally on a Ford Taurus 3.0
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