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Hey man. First, I would bleed the cooling system, especially since you said you replaced the thermostat and opened the system up.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUpXgAJ1gjU
That alone might solve alot of your problems. Does the car restart right after it stalls?
Welcome to the forums.
Edit: You do NOT need a bleeder valve to do this job. That Cavalier probably doesn’t have one. Please don’t fixate on it, just do the rest of the procedure. 🙂
I would also be looking at your ECT sensor with a scan tool while the vehicle is running as well as doing a visual inspection of the wiring to the ECT.
I would definetly run a block test as well, cavaliers are famous for their head gaskets(Might explain the gurgling) i would also check the coolant temp. sensor
Why was the ICM replaced?
Any CEL?
Did you see if your missing spark or fuel when it stalls? Did you look at PID data on the ECT sensor?
When you are restarting the vehicle ‘with the pedal’ as you say, are you putting it all the way down putting it into clear flood mode?
Quoted From dreamer2355:
Why was the ICM replaced?
Any CEL?
Did you see if your missing spark or fuel when it stalls? Did you look at PID data on the ECT sensor?
When you are restarting the vehicle ‘with the pedal’ as you say, are you putting it all the way down putting it into clear flood mode?
- ICM was replaced because of stalling at stoplights. This was a recommendation from another mechanic. Do you think this was unnecessary?
- Check Engine Light comes on, but only sometimes.
- Customer stated that another mechanic could not get a reading from a computer. I have recommended the customer get the ECT sensor checked and fuel pressure.
- Yes, pedal down to start the vehicle but only some of the time.
The customer is not reporting that the vehicle has stalled at a stoplight since. He feels confident [using Eric’s video] to flush the coolant. I’ll be calling him Thursday to check on the status of the vehicle.
I would have tested the ICM before replacement.
If you are using a clear flood mode to start the vehicle, then you need to be using a fuel pressure gauge and start checking for leaking injectors or again, a faulty ECT,
I still would not rule out vacuum leaks either as well as a possible faulty fuel pump check valve.
Again, using a fuel pressure gauge will rule out a faulty fuel pump check valve and leaking injectors.
If you dont have a scan tool to check the ECT, you can use a DVOM. As the temperature of the coolant increases, the resistance of the ECT should increase or decrease (dependent on if its a NCT or PCT type). You would need to find a chart to cross reference your ohm readings to.
I would also be trying to retrieve the CEL code.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Quoted From Beefy:
That alone might solve alot of your problems. Does the car restart right after it stalls?
In order…
- Customer reported the vehicle stalled several times at stop lights and could not get it restarted without waiting at least 5 minutes…or much longer.
- I drove the vehicle around the block twice. Second pass and it stalled at a stoplight and I restarted it no problem.
- Replaced thermostat and ignition control module.
- Vehicle immediately showed a problem starting up without putting the pedal down.
- After numerous starts the vehicle did start up without help from the pedal [some of the time].
- Vehicle stalled twice and immediately restarted (either normally or by using the pedal).
I think you need to start with the basics first before replacing anymore parts. First bleed any air from the cooling system, here’s a video, don’t worry if you don’t have a bleeder valve do everything else the same.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUpXgAJ1 … ure=relmfuAlso this video shows how to diagnose a head gasket or combustion leak into the cooling system.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUzOTnsWImINext pull the code for the CEL and post what you find.
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