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Quoted From skim3544:
The only issue was the rubber gasket that came with the after market water pump did not align well so I reused the old rubber gasket from the removed water pump.
That scares me a bit if I’m honest..
That engine has a solid valve train and as a result the valves are adjustable, I’ve actually shot some video on this but I haven’t had the opportunity to edit it yet. That said you should proceed with caution because if you mess up the adjustment not only will the engine run poorly but you could also damage it if you get them too tight because it will ‘burn up the valves’ meaning they could crack due to too much heat. In addition it’s only recommended that they be adjusted if they are noisy so if you don’t hear any engine noise I would not worry about this as in my experience even doing the adjustment there is only a VERY small amount that they will adjust.
As for what to replace during that job I’ve actually done a video on this process and the video is available on this site on the ‘Tools’ page under ‘J Series V6 Timing Belt Video’, here’s a link.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/tools.aspx
Just click on the picture of the V6 timing belt video icon below the player, second one in from the right.
As for what to replace, I recommend replacing the hydraulic tensioner if it is of a particular type (this is covered in the video as there are 2 types) as this is a common failure point. I also replace the water pump but not the idlers as I don’t often see issue here, I just spin them to see if they are noisy, if not I reinstall them. I also don’t recommend replacing the cam and crank seals especially if you’ve been good about your oil changes as I don’t often see these leak and even if they did it would leak behind the timing cover and not effect the belt.
Good luck.
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
In addition it’s only recommended that they be adjusted if they are noisy so if you don’t hear any engine noise I would not worry about this as in my experience even doing the adjustment there is only a VERY small amount that they will adjust.I run into the same statement from Honda – Adjust valves only if noisy. But for some Hondas, valves gets tighter with use and they would not get nosey and eventually you would burn out the valves. I’ve seen this problem with the first generation CRV. Also when I adjusted valve for my Civic Si (DOHC) at 100K miles all of the valves are way tighter than the specification. Do I need to worry about this problem with Accord V6?
I was able to replace the timing belt over the weekend. Replaced belt, hydraulic adjuster, tensioner pulley, idler pulley (we already bought the new part so we decided to put it in), and the water pump. The only issue was the rubber gasket that came with the after market water pump did not align well so I reused the old rubber gasket from the removed water pump.
As with all other Hondas, we had the most trouble with the Crank pulley bolt and couple of timing belt cover bolts due to the limited space – we could not get in using 3/8 short sockets so we had to use 1/4 short sockets. We also had to completely remove the engine mount (which is not stated in Alldata manual) because we could not remove the engine mount bracket bolts.
Quoted From Beefy:
That scares me a bit if I’m honest..
It depends on the condition of the gasket. Some can be reused depending what par of the vehicle you are working on but like you, id prefer to replace them.
Quoted From skim3544:
I run into the same statement from Honda – Adjust valves only if noisy. But for some Hondas, valves gets tighter with use and they would not get nosey and eventually you would burn out the valves. I’ve seen this problem with the first generation CRV. Also when I adjusted valve for my Civic Si (DOHC) at 100K miles all of the valves are way tighter than the specification. Do I need to worry about this problem with Accord V6?
I was able to replace the timing belt over the weekend. Replaced belt, hydraulic adjuster, tensioner pulley, idler pulley (we already bought the new part so we decided to put it in), and the water pump. The only issue was the rubber gasket that came with the after market water pump did not align well so I reused the old rubber gasket from the removed water pump.
As with all other Hondas, we had the most trouble with the Crank pulley bolt and couple of timing belt cover bolts due to the limited space – we could not get in using 3/8 short sockets so we had to use 1/4 short sockets. We also had to completely remove the engine mount (which is not stated in Alldata manual) because we could not remove the engine mount bracket bolts.
I disagree as I’ve been working on that engine since it was in the second generation Integra and NEVER once saw the valves burn up as a result of them getting too tight on their own nor have I ever seen that on ANY engine. I know that they are usually tight on the exhaust valves but I believe that to be due to how they are adjusted initially during manufacturer, also remember we are talking about thousands of an inch here and the speck calls for some variation in the spec being acceptable. I know for a fact that you’re not going to have to worry about the valves burning up due to not adjusting them but if you are intent on adjusting them feel free especially if you have experience but given that you need to not only remove the intake but a bunch of other stuff to do the adjustment then consider your efforts and if they are worth your time knowing that you are just doing it to satisfy your own curiosity.
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