- This topic has 5 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 11 years, 1 month ago by
.
-
Topic
-
My car : 2000 – TOYOTA – COROLLA – 4-1794 1.8L 1ZZ-FE.
The Problem:
When I start me car with the AC/ defogger on the car starts but idles very hard and then dies. If I start the car with it off it’s starts great and runs great but if I try to turn on that AC/ defogger it idles hard and dies. If I am in the middle of driving and turn on the AC/ defogger there is a loss of power for about 5 seconds but then it kicks through and will run fine for the duration of the ride.Car History:
The car was given to me by my uncle, I know it’s on it’s 2nd motor. The car now has 250,000 miles but I’m not sure how much of that was on the old motor. When I got the car he told me it was on it’s last leg. I have been driving it for 5 years now with little to no problems. I recently had the transmission fluid replaced. I change the oil and air filter every 6 months or after ever big car trip (2-3,000 miles or so). Last summer my engine light came on, my friend Joe had a reader so he plugged it in. I don’t remember the code but it was for O2 sensors. My light was only on for a week and then it turned back off on it’s own. I was in college and had little money so I left it alone. Later that summer the AC stopped being cold (which may be irreverent?). Now it’s winter and the engine light came on again. Along with this engine light the car was dying when the heater, AC or defogger was on. I took it in to a shop to have it diagnosed. They plugged in their reader which is different than Joe’s. The one Joe used read clearly one code. The one they had at the shop did not read any code and just gave an endless list of problems with my car. I did not like that at all especially when they told me my air filter was on the list and that my air filter was crap. I just replaced it a week ago!!! I asked “oh really? did you look at it?” they said “no” so I insisted they take it out and it was immaculate. I refused service and requested a quote, it was for over $2000. They wanted to charge me $100 for spark plugs! Not including labor. I bought the plugs and changed them myself. This has fixed the car dying when the heat is on, but not when the AC/ defogger is on. Someone suggested IAC, MAF, and others but before I go looking into that, is it possible that my old O2 sensor reading could be the problem? Can bad O2 sensors cause the car to die when AC/ defogger is on?Thanks!
Lisa
-
Replies
-
O2 sensors won’t cause the car to die when you put the A/C / Defogger on. There is another issue. I would suspect you may have an issue with an A/C Compressor that binding up for some reason and is putting an extra load on the engine.
Just turning the heat on, should not cause any performance issue… If there is one, it probably would be electrical related, but I have never heard of such an issue on a GEN 8 Corolla.
Also, the IAC’s are very seldom a problem with this engine…
Try taking the car to any major car parts store and have them pull the codes and post them here….They will do it for free.
Common issues with this car are a P0420 (catalytic coverter not working to efficiency) and P0171 (lean engine condition)…
The MAFs are expensive ($120+) and cleaning them sometimes helps and sometimes doesn’t… Use only genuine MAF cleaner to clean them and clean them properly… Most people clean the wrong part (the bulb, which is the Intake Air Temperature Sensor)…. The wires that are internal are what needs cleaned.
Also, Toyotas don’t take kindly to spark plugs which are not NGKs and never use anything but a DENSO O2 sensor on this car…
Corollas are great cars and relatively simple to work on… I personally have owned three Generation 8 (1998-2002) Toyota Corollas and loved every one of them…
If you have any further questions, post them here..
-Karl
The AC defogger uses a lot of current and puts a load on the electrical system. The thing that is supposed to combat this load is the alternator. I would get your alternator (and battery, as well, couldn’t hurt) load tested. They will do it for free at any good autoparts store.
Given that the condition only occurs now when the AC is active, I would say the issue is likely with the AC. If the compressor is bad, or there is some other issue causing resistance with the AC system, it can really load the engine and drag it down. Also, the AC compressor uses a lot of electrical current which can load the system as well, making the engine work harder. Try disconnecting the connector to the AC compressor clutch and see if the problem still persists. If it goes away, you know your problem is with the AC system. Honestly, by the sound of things, you might be better off without the AC in that vehicle if that’s what it comes to. AC systems are often more expensive than people expect to repair. Not to mention there are a lot of components to the system and you need specialized equipment, and sometimes a special license to work on it. For those reasons I don’t recommend the DIY do AC work themselves.
Good luck and keep us posted.
I think the A/C not cooling is relevant. If it is not cooling it is broken. It may be that the refrigerant has leaked out. The refrigerant keeps the compressor cool and the oil that circulates with the refrigerant keeps the compressor lubricated. There is a switch which should stop the compressor from running if the refrigerant is low. This could be defective.
In defrost mode the A/C works just as it does in summer only now the removal of moisture in the car’s cabin is the important feature. So your A/C system, since it does not cool is not doing any good in winter.
So, do as Eric says and unplug the compressor clutch. Let us know if this fixes the problem.
I would also look at the AC system first as it only acts up when that is on. my first thought was perhaps something is causing resistance in the compressor and making it hard for the engine to compensate for the increased drag. my next thought is perhaps the AC idle-up valve isn’t working properly, it’s supposed to increase engine idle rpms to account for the increased load of the AC system being on. This in itself isn’t likely to cause rough running and stalling, but on an engine with such little torque (especially at idle) it could highlight a vacuum leak or bad sensor causing a lack of power under load. I’m no expert so these are just suggestions of things to consider.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.