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Loved part one.
I watched part two before school this morning. I thought it was cool how you modified the center port (proper term?) to make the manifold level.
Sorry you had to go through soo much BS with this repair, but thanks for not cutting out the tough stuff.
[quote=”SludgeMan” post=125554][quote=”Rereonehundred” post=125461]If it were a car I cared about, I might have sought out a tapered pipe tap for that hole into the coolant passage, then had a local machine shop make up a correct stud with one end having the matching thread taper.[/quote]
The problem is you’d have to ream a tapered hole in the cylinder head to the correct bore, then use an interrupted thread tap and hope you didn’t crack the cylinder head. It can work but a lot of points of potential failure.[/quote]Can you tell us more about reaming for a taper and interrupted taps?
In any NPT (National Pipe Thread) tapping I’ve done, the hole is just drilled normally with a twist bit giving parallel sides to the hole with no taper. The tap has the taper built into it and cuts the taper, which is only 3/4″ per foot..
And example is in this link. http://www.engineersedge.com/manufacturing/pipe-tap-drill-chart.htm
For myself, it seems that every time I open the hood on one of those POS I hate them more. Everything looks like a simple repair until you get into it. “Have to move this to remove that” and every thing you touch is rusted or rotten and is difficult to remove and breaks.
It seems like when you get everything in tip-top shape on those turds the first thing you replaced 2 years ago breaks again and it starts over.
When I saw the subject of your video, Eric, I had to get out the popcorn cuz I knew it was gonna be a long one. I could see what was gonna happen next every step of the way.
Even though that job would turn some of us into an alcoholic the video itself was extremely well done IMO.
Keep em coming.
On a recent forum post, anonymous writes, “I service 15 chevy ventures for the local taxi company in town and have become stumped with this one van that has given me trouble over the past few days. At this time I’m doing trying anything I can on my time as I feel bad I’m taking so long to probably figure out a simple issue.”
15 VENTURES!!!!! Holy Schmoly!!! Poor guy…. This sounds like a 1 way ticket to mechanic purgatory… As an owner of 1 Venture, I simply cannot begin to imagine…:cheer: enjoyed these videos Eric!
What are you drilling into? I have not done it myself but I’ve seen guys crack cylinder heads trying to cut tapered threads, especially if it’s being done in a corner or area where there is not much material. It can be done but it takes patience.
Oh on the interrupted thread tap, it helps prevent chipping and reduces outward stress.
[quote=”Rereonehundred” post=125658]Can you tell us more about reaming for a taper and interrupted taps?
In any NPT (National Pipe Thread) tapping I’ve done, the hole is just drilled normally with a twist bit giving parallel sides to the hole with no taper. The tap has the taper built into it and cuts the taper, which is only 3/4″ per foot..
And example is in this link. http://www.engineersedge.com/manufacturing/pipe-tap-drill-chart.htm%5B/quote%5D
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