- This topic has 11 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 11 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
Just like it says engine is sezied i am assuming from overheat found a split upper cooling hose.
So now the question is how do i unbolt the torque converter from the engine.
I have dropped the oil pan removed the oil pump and connecting chain. Unbolted the rods from the crank and still cant spin the engine
-
Replies
-
Just like it says engine is sezied i am assuming from overheat found a split upper cooling hose.
So now the question is how do i unbolt the torque converter from the engine.
I have dropped the oil pan removed the oil pump and connecting chain. Unbolted the rods from the crank and still cant spin the engine so how do i unbolt the torque converter?
remove starter and to do that I think you have to remove a plastic cover that covers all the goodies, but with the engine seazed all I can tell you is try to see if you can brake it loose with a breaker bar, if not that I think your best coarse of action would be to drop the subframe with engine and trans and all, because if you can’t get the crank to rotate you aren’t going to be able to access the bolts that bolt the flex plate too the torque converter. usually you would just rotate the engine with a breaker bar, or buy the flex plate with the screwdriver or something like that until you could access each bolt, the pull the engine out, but I would say our best coarse of action now is to either find a way to brake the assembly loose, or drop the sub frame with everything, and sadly pull the engine off the trans with the torque converter still attacked to the flexplate.
what I have experienced with these engines, when they get hot and seaze a common failure point is the main and rod bearings, especially if there as a internal coolant leak from the LIM gasket at any point, sometimes a bearing spins, and prying on the crank hard enough breaks the stick loose so you can rotate it freely enough to get the sucker to rotate to remove the bolts for the flexplate and torque converter.
Well I got two out of 3 bolts removed. I finally beat the snot out of the bottom of a piston with the 12 lb fix all and broke the pistons free. Also got the main bearings off of the crank. Now it appears as if the cylinder head is going to have to come off and pull the pistons up from the top. I can rotate until the crank hits one of the rods but no further. Unfortunately I am about, 1/2″ shy of getting the last bolt through the starter hole, and 3 inches shy of getting it from the bottom. Giving consideration to buying $500 grinder wheels and just cutting the engine in half LOL.
Looks like I get to pull the cylinder head, its worth the risk to me of not damaging the transmission.
if you have the three bolts removed that connect the torque converter too the flexplate, and all the bolts that bolt the engine too the bell housing with some wiggling the engine should come out, just make sure you use the proper method of removing the engine.
creative, so you loosened the cap ends on the connecting rods and mains to free up the crank?
my suggestion, get a big prybar and a impact socket and put it on the crank bolt, and put a cheater bar on that sucker, more leverage is your friend, see if you can get the crankshaft to rotate that way now that you have freed up the pistons and unbolted the mains and rod bearings, that might get you to your last bolt.
Yep that is exactly how i did it. But without removing the cylinder head i cant rotate the crank in a full circle.
The crank is free but the connecting rods are actually in the way. But yes the crank spins w no resistance.
Going to have to remove the cylinder head to remove the pistons from the top.
I hate to add the additional labor it sucks but I would rather do it that way than risk transmission damage.
Problem is I cant get to the 3rd bolt. Soo now it appears as if i get to pull a cylinder head tooo. Grrr just frustrating. This my friends is the danger of a flip car. $450 car $400 engine and $1000 worth of labor. But hey even when sold for $1700. $900 buys alot of Christmas presents for the family.
yea, once you get it out you can drop another good 3400 in it and it will be good to go, but while you got the engine out, I suggest changing the intake manifold gaskets and those coolant bypass pipes.
Got it. Didnt matter anyways trans hosing was cracked. Luckily all the scrap yards know mw so i got a replacement trans for less than $200.
This is actually a 2.4 guess Ibshpuld have specified. New engine and trans are going in this afternoon. I am actually sick of looking at this car.
I know what everyone says but these
ah well the 2.4 is smaller than the 3400 lol! that should make things a little easier, yea I would be tired of looking at that car too.
Sigh. If you knew you had a seized engine and were replacing it, you didn’t need to remove all that stuff. All I ever do in that situation is pull the torque converter with the engine. It’s not fastened inside the transmission, it will just pull right out the front. Just try and keep things as straight as possible to avoid damaging the transmission seal. Once it’s out, you can access the bolts with a wrench and reinstall the torque converter into the transmission.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.