- This topic has 15 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 11 years, 10 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
-
Replies
-
If you get a “loaded” caliper it comes with the bracket and then just unbolt the bracket and all, dont worry about the seized slides that will take all day to maybe get freed up
Thanks snshd and college, I will have to view the caliper video again. I might just wrestle with it after removing the whole thing. If I get the part from autozone it looks like I have to buy the slides seperately which I think is a rip off. I ordered the silicon paste from amazon.
Try another parts store if there is one. I have always been able to buy semi loaded calipers which include the brackets. Loaded calipers mean they come with pads too i believe.
loaded calipers just come with the bracket and slides and shims, no pads. great time saver, and not much more than just a caliper
I purchased the 2 front calipers and brackets and put one on today. I’ll do the other one in a week or 2. Everything worked out well except……in order for the brake line to caliper connection to work without dripping when pumping the brakes, that banjo bolt really needs to be torqued. I was not aware of this even after watching Eric’s caliper videos which were still extremely helpful by the way. I tried for 2 hours thinking if I changed the washers, used the old banjo bolt, used the old washers etc, then it would stop dripping. But every time I pumped up the brakes, it would drip again. Frustrating! I finally took it to a mechanic/friend and he told me you really have to torque that banjo bolt. He tightened it another 1/4 turn and it stopped dripping. I thought it would strip since the caliper is made of aluminum but he said no, it needs to be really cranked down. I slipped him a few bucks for that tip. When I do the other caliper I’ll know better. Eric, the vice grip on the brake line with the rubber hose worked great and saved me alot of brake fluid.
If you have copper sealing washers, here is a trick to get them to seal. Hang them from a piece of steel wire and heat them up until they turn dull red. You can use a propane torch or even a gas stove. Let them cool slowly. This softens the washers making it easier for them to seal the imperfections in machined surfaces. Try it!
Let me guess, copper washers? If that’s the case I’d reuse the steel ones. They’re a lot less difficult to deal with. I’ve never tried the heating method, perhaps I’ll give that a shot sometime.
Ok, put on the other caliper and piece of cake after heating the copper washers-thanks Roywrench! I had the job done (with the help of my son) in 45 minutes. Eric, I don’t know why the steel washers leaked. Maybe I didn’t torque it enough but I was worried about stripping the threads in the aluminum housing. My Cavalier will be next for new calipers, rotors and pads, in a few months.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.