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My step mother bought a 2000 Nissan Sentra from someone that was going to junk it. They needed money and the car had issues. I knew the previous owner and had done some minor work on it before. Well the current problem is the radiator split at the top and it was near the end of winter. the owner did not fix it. instead of antifreeze they put water in it, it was cheaper… They ended up parking it because the temp would raise way too fast. long story short they may have let water freeze in the block/head.
I went and looked at this car, it starts and idles fine, but upon inspection there was no coolant of any kind in the car and it was missing the water pump v belt. I filled it full of coolant and revved the engine. it sprayed coolant out the radiator . The coolant was not hot.
questions
I know a working water pump can do this, but with no belt on the water pump how did it do this? could the head/block be cracked?
I know the parts stores have a block tester/ 5 gas tester for coolant that checks for bad head gaskets and cracked block/heads.
If the head was cracked or something how long would the car have to run before there would be enough gas in the coolant to check with this tester?I have to decide, new v belt, maybe water pump and radiator, or used engine or junk the car.
Thanks guys.
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Honestly, it doesn’t sound like a good investment to me. With the possibility of a cracked block or cylinder head, I don’t think it’s worth the risk.
Good luck and keep us posted.
update grand total of $200 in this car ATM. It has new belts, battery, alternator, tires, radiator and radiator hoses. Can get money back two ways, junk and somebody that want to buy to put new engine in. wanting a cheap running car, but if not away it will go.
Notes This engine is know for bad head gaskets.(edit: other forums nick name is “The head gasket eater”)
I inspected the car and found water in the oil.
There was no oil in the new radiator or old radiator.
The car does not overheat as long as there is coolant/water in the car.
It starts on the first try and runs great.(really, it sounds good, idles fine.)
used block tester and tested for combustion gases in the coolant. It indicated no gases in coolant.
I ran an engine flush and changed the oil, hoping that someone had put something stupid in the oil……..
This car holds ~3 quarts of oil if bone dry. I drained 2 gallons of oil/coolant mix out of the oil pan.
added more oil,drained the oil again.another gallon of oil/water mix…..Time for some questions
1. The engine has freeze plugs. Theoretical these keep the block from cracking correct?
2. Is there a cheap way to find out if the block is cracked, beyond what I have already done?
3. Will pulling the head make it clear it was the head warped/cracked and gasket,not a crack in the block?
4. The car has 200k. If it needs a head/gasket, should I go used or new/rebuilt? I ask because I heard somewhere that a new head may up the combustion pressure, break old piston rings, and cause a failure.
5. If this engine if fixable, is a new timing chain needed or just a new tensioner? (I heard that only the tension goes bad and not the chain.)
6.would a good cleaning (engine flush + oil pan dropped) and some synthetic oil or something like lucas oil additive keep bearings/rods working? Or do you think this engine is done?for question # 6 what type of wear would i look for with the oil pan dropped and head off to tell what damage has been done via coolant in oil.
Thanks
Freeze plugs are not really ‘freeze plugs’ but casting plugs for draining the ‘sand’ out of the block when it’s poured at the engine manu. It’s a crap shoot when it comes to actually protecting the block against freezing. Besides–they are external to the engine. If one did give out? You’d be leaking fluid on the ground, not in the oil.
Loosing coolant into the oil—no combustion gasses in the radiator.
Sounds like a hairline crack in the block itself is leaking fluid from the water jacket into the oil pan.
Could be in the head, but my gut feeling is the block is cracked.
Cheapest option would be to hit a pick and pull for a used engine–or a check of salvage yards for a replacement.
Recoup some expense: Sell the car, be honest about what it needs. Or call a yard that buys junk cars and get scrap value. Last option would be to part it out to other owners, and then scrap the shell/husk at the salvage yard.
In my opinion you’ve done your best at trying to figure out what’s going on with it—but sooner or later? Ya gotta call it a day. You’re the only one that can make that call.
S-
Unless you have x-ray vision there really is no way to see what’s going on inside the engine. If you plan to go further, it’s probably time to take the head off.
My advice, get rid of it. Vehicles that aren’t maintained and abused are not long for this world. Most of them want to die after a certain point. I get the feeling that vehicle might be one of those.
Good luck and keep us posted.
I have unbolted just about everything under the hood of a car and replaced it. I have rebuilt starters, alternators and other things. I have done timing belts and chains. I have not ever rebuilt an engine or removed the head(s). I know I have it in me, mechanically speaking to complete such a task. I know what is involved to do it right, checking spec’s, milling the block deck and head, boring the engine etc…
That cost way too much money right now. I just need a junker for my mom to drive around town until I can do something better. This car is not worth another engine based on what I read about the engines for this time frame. I am however willing to gamble with about another $150. I can get a used head from a working car if I go pull it for $65. I can get the gasket kit for $50. I can have the head milled if it’s not flat enough. I know the bearings, rings, and cam may be worn due to water in the oil.
With your experience what do you think the chances are that the block is cracked on this car?
no smoke or steam at exhaust.
no oil in coolant.
no combustion gasses in radiator.
starts easy.
coolant going in to oil.would it help if I pulled the head and could tell you if the head was warped and gasket bad? or would the chance still be the same?
Thanks for all your time
As I’ve stated before, I don’t think it’s worth the effort. There comes a point where you’re just throwing good money over bad. Do yourself a favor, cut your losses and move on. That’s what I recommend. If you decide to do otherwise, enter at your own risk.
This has nothing to do with your mechanical ability. It has to do with how things wear out and when they reach the end of their service life. I’ve seen this many times and it usually ends up the same. A few minutes of a test drive where you think everything is fine until something goes wrong. Then something goes very wrong and you wish you never spent the money or did the work in the first place. Then again, it could also work out but the probability of that is low.
In an engine thousands of an inch make a huge difference in the outcome. Get it wrong, and everything goes wrong.
I sincerely wish you the best of luck.
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