Home › Forums › Stay Dirty Lounge › Service and Repair Questions Answered Here › 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS 2.4 running at 221 degrees
- This topic has 12 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 7 years, 9 months ago by
Richard Kirshy.
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- May 18, 2017 at 4:20 pm #880618
Hello guys I have a Eclipse that is running hot. Let me give you some history on the car.
Changed radiator
Changed thermostat
New upper, lower hose.
All new coolant 50, 50
Conformed fans work.
No air in system
No oil in coolant
New water pump 2 years ago
All of this was changed in the last 2 years
It never over heats just runs very hot it was 86 degrees yesterday and the highest coolant temp was 221, 222 degrees ONLY when going up the big hills we have in PA. When stopped or on the highway, city driving it’s fine. Only when going up big hills.
I am convinced that the cooling systems in these cars just suck… it’s been doing this for 2 years now and was just wondering some input. Thanks guys.
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- May 18, 2017 at 4:23 pm #880619
Also as soon as I go back down hill or on flat ot will run 200, 203, 210, 215 again in that range. I winter ot runs 203. It seems like when going up hill, under load, high rpms it shoots up. But if I rev it in park it stays around 203 to 210
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May 18, 2017 at 4:47 pm #880621One more thing, when the temperature is high the dummy temperature gauge gets close to the H before dropping near the middle, so I guess that 220ish is hot for this car?
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May 18, 2017 at 5:26 pm #880623Automatic or manual?
If automatic, is it equipped with a transmission cooler, if not equipped might consider adding one
How exactly are you measuring the coolant temp to determine that it is running that hot?
Has the cooling system ever been flushed?
Is there anything blocking the airflow across the radiator?
Are there any signs that one of the radiator hoses might be collapsing?
Have you considered something like this:May 19, 2017 at 4:28 pm #880651Auto
Only the radiator has a built-in transmission cooler
I’m using a scan tool in the past I’ve use an infrared thermometer
I flushed it about a year ago, cooling system actually really clean
No signs of any hose collapsing.
I am iffy about using products like that, I never heard of this Wetter Water. I’ll have to read up on it.
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May 19, 2017 at 5:26 pm #880655Well wetter water happens to be a good product..
Been using it for a number of years.
According to spec you should be running a 190*F thermostat.
So lets go thru the possibilities.
Faulty or incorrect thermostat
Faulty or failing water pump.
Partial blockage in the radiator or block.Now b4 you go off on a “i just replaced ….” torrent
A radiator can look “clean” from what little you can observe through the filler neck.
But unless you perform a flow test you can never really tell, unless you happen to have a FLIR camera available.
As to the parts you replaced……
These days, there is no promise.
A incorrect marked thermostat or partially functioning or stuck one is possible.
A slipping or damaged impeller is also a possibility.FYI, my niece owned the exact same vehicle for 14 years ( and she is not easy on a car ) and never had any type of over heating issue even when it was close to 100 outside.
Best suggestion would be go through each part and confirm that it is functioning correctly
May 19, 2017 at 9:02 pm #880666[quote=”nightflyr” post=188031]Well wetter water happens to be a good product..
Been using it for a number of years.
According to spec you should be running a 190*F thermostat.
So lets go thru the possibilities.
Faulty or incorrect thermostat
Faulty or failing water pump.
Partial blockage in the radiator or block.Now b4 you go off on a “i just replaced ….” torrent
A radiator can look “clean” from what little you can observe through the filler neck.
But unless you perform a flow test you can never really tell, unless you happen to have a FLIR camera available.
As to the parts you replaced……
These days, there is no promise.
A incorrect marked thermostat or partially functioning or stuck one is possible.
A slipping or damaged impeller is also a possibility.FYI, my niece owned the exact same vehicle for 14 years ( and she is not easy on a car ) and never had any type of over heating issue even when it was close to 100 outside.
Best suggestion would be go through each part and confirm that it is functioning correctly[/quote]
Well the radiator is brand new as of last November and the issue never changed so that’s why I am sure it’s not the radiator. I get good heat in the winter, I am using a 190 thermostat the 2nd one that been changed out. I even boiled it on the stove. Also the water pump was changed its a duralast and it was the same type propeller as the oem one.
I’m gonna get my infrared thermometer in a few min and take the temperature by the temp sensor and see if it’s close, also I’m gonna see if there is crap in the condenser..
Do you mean a camera that is like a snake and water proof? I do have a few of those I can use.
Anyways I definitely appreciate the help
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May 19, 2017 at 9:20 pm #880667Do you mean a camera that is like a snake and water proof? I do have a few of those I can use.
A FLIR camera is a thermal imaging camera.
Use to see temperature differences.Might also check for a slipping or loose fan belt.
Attachments:May 19, 2017 at 9:25 pm #880668No debris in the condenser or radiator, and the temp I saw was 195ish to 210ish that temp was taken from the inlet hose or upper hose before going into the radiator.. the scan tool was saying 212 and 213. could it be a temp sensor that is not throwing a code but is not reading right? I sorta ruled out the temperature sensor since the fan kicked on
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May 19, 2017 at 9:27 pm #880669[quote=”nightflyr” post=188043]Do you mean a camera that is like a snake and water proof? I do have a few of those I can use.
A FLIR camera is a thermal imaging camera.
Use to see temperature differences.Might also check for a slipping or loose fan belt.[/quote]
Unfortunately I don’t have one of those, my cat does not have a fan belt but the belt that runs the water pump is newer and tight, no slipping or anythingSent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
May 19, 2017 at 9:57 pm #880674No debris in the condenser or radiator, and the temp I saw was 195ish to 210ish that temp was taken from the inlet hose or upper hose before going into the radiator.. the scan tool was saying 212 and 213. could it be a temp sensor that is not throwing a code but is not reading right? I sorta ruled out the temperature sensor since the fan kicked on
A faulty reading temp sensor…. could be the issue.
But I would think a 10% variant is acceptable.
I run a 170 thermostat and see temps in hot weather @ 186If I remember correctly there are 2 coolant devices on that engine :
A coolant temp sensor which talks to the ECM and controls the fan(s) operation and a coolant temperature sender to gauge.
It may be that the fans are being signaled on and off at a higher temp.
That can be tested though.May 19, 2017 at 11:01 pm #880676[quote=”nightflyr” post=188050]No debris in the condenser or radiator, and the temp I saw was 195ish to 210ish that temp was taken from the inlet hose or upper hose before going into the radiator.. the scan tool was saying 212 and 213. could it be a temp sensor that is not throwing a code but is not reading right? I sorta ruled out the temperature sensor since the fan kicked on
A faulty reading temp sensor…. could be the issue.
But I would think a 10% variant is acceptable.
I run a 170 thermostat and see temps in hot weather @ 186If I remember correctly there are 2 coolant devices on that engine :
A coolant temp sensor which talks to the ECM and controls the fan(s) operation and a coolant temperature sender to gauge.
It may be that the fans are being signaled on and off at a higher temp.
That can be tested though.[/quote]Yes that is correct there are 2. I’ll test them this coming weekend when I get back in town. I definitely appreciate the help man!
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May 19, 2017 at 11:29 pm #880678I would think, for operational purposes, you’ll only really need to test the coolant temp sensor to make sure the fans are starting and stopping at the correct range.
The sending unit only controls the dash gauge, so if that is reading correctly …..
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