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2000 Mazda 626 2.0L rpm stuttering (REHASH) at 60 mph

Home Forums Stay Dirty Lounge Service and Repair Questions Answered Here 2000 Mazda 626 2.0L rpm stuttering (REHASH) at 60 mph

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  • #437718
    Bad_MechanicBad_Mechanic
    Participant

      Hey ECG Forum members, happy new years.

      I’ve returned with a new problem: I was driving to work today on the highways, foot on the pedal at 2500rpm max (got a light foot) doing 40mph. As it climbs to 45mph rpm drops to 1500 and then picks up to 2400 and then drops again, the needle looked like a pendulum going back and forth. The whole time my foot was still lightly on the pedal. While the needle was going back and forth, the car was jerking a bit hard when the needle moved. I checked my transmission fluid as this is an automatic and it was fine. What could the problem be?

      In the meantime I will be taking regular roads to work doing only 40mph max. Thanks for reading and hope you can help.

    Viewing 7 replies - 31 through 37 (of 37 total)
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    • #437749
      Bad_MechanicBad_Mechanic
      Participant

        Eric the car has not been sitting, far from it. I’ll keep an eye on the plug tubes but I’ll wait to change. Kinda pricey.

        DJ it only happens at speed. I won’t turn off overdrive. I’ll have my mechanic check the fuel pressure.

        Why am I the only one that finds it odd to add more transmission fluid? I have a Suzuki and I never ever have to add any atf or engine oil ever. It gets its’ oil change every 3k miles and the atf I’ll do annually now but seriously, what is with all the toping off that I see at my auto parts store? Its’ not right. I checked the oil and theres not low. Excuse the rant.

        #437750
        dreamer2355dreamer2355
        Participant

          The whole point of over drive is to change the final drive ratio of your last gear making the engine produce less RPM which earns you better MPG and reduced engine wear. The only time you may want to turn over drive off is if your towing as an example or are doing some type of diagnostic testing.

          Are you losing transmission fluid due to a leak? How does the fluid look as well as the coolant?

          It still sounds like its ignition related.

          Did you ever try to set your cruise on at 60 mph to see how the vehicle behaves?

          #437751
          djdevon3djdevon3
          Participant

            Change out the valve cover gasket to address the oil leaking onto the plugs. The plug seals are included on the gasket. If that’s not sealing correctly you will get a bit of oil slipping down into the plug hole. Check your PCV valve and as others have mentioned make sure you get that fuel pressure tested. If your injectors can keep up with the load due to decreased pressure it could cause issues as higher speeds. Still haven’t ruled out a coilpack issue so keep that in mind.

            #437752
            Bad_MechanicBad_Mechanic
            Participant

              Quoted From djdevon3:

              Change out the valve cover gasket to address the oil leaking onto the plugs. The plug seals are included on the gasket. If that’s not sealing correctly you will get a bit of oil slipping down into the plug hole. Check your PCV valve and as others have mentioned make sure you get that fuel pressure tested. If your injectors can keep up with the load due to decreased pressure it could cause issues as higher speeds. Still haven’t ruled out a coilpack issue so keep that in mind.

              I don’t believe I have coil packs. I have wires hooked to an electric distributor.

              #437753
              EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
              Keymaster

                If it’s only happening at speed I suppose it’s possible that it’s a driveline issue, perhaps an inner CV joint that’s going bad, these can get worn and cause an ‘intermittent’ vibration at highway speed. It’s very difficult to tell which one is causing a problem however but I often push up on the inner axle to see if one inner joint is more loose than the other and replace that axle first then recheck for the symptom.

                #437754
                djdevon3djdevon3
                Participant

                  Quoted From Bad_Mechanic:
                  I don’t believe I have coil packs. I have wires hooked to an electric distributor.

                  That’s a coilpack.

                  93-97 FS-DE has a distributor. 98-02 FS-DE has a coilpack (singular). You might be confusing the term “coil on plug” with “coilpack”. No 626 came with coil on plugs, only a distributor or coilpack. A distributor controls the firing mechanically. A coilpack does it electronically via PCM and ECU. Since you have a 98-02 it’s going to be a coilpack… unless you swapped out the engine with an older 93-97 or it’s a GLXi European variant of some sort. Since you’re in FL that’s very unlikely. You have a coilpack.

                  #437755
                  Bad_MechanicBad_Mechanic
                  Participant

                    Quoted From djdevon3:

                    That’s a coilpack.

                    93-97 FS-DE has a distributor. 98-02 FS-DE has a coilpack (singular). You might be confusing the term “coil on plug” with “coilpack”. No 626 came with coil on plugs, only a distributor or coilpack. A distributor controls the firing mechanically. A coilpack does it electronically via PCM and ECU. Since you have a 98-02 it’s going to be a coilpack… unless you swapped out the engine with an older 93-97 or it’s a GLXi European variant of some sort. Since you’re in FL that’s very unlikely. You have a coilpack.

                    I have a coil pack.

                  Viewing 7 replies - 31 through 37 (of 37 total)
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