2000 HONDA PRELUDE AUTOMATIC PROBLEM

I recently fixed a really screwed up 200k mile trans (nearly identical to yours) in a 99 Accord I bought, so I have a bit of insight for you. If you have a check engine light on OR the D light has ever flashed while driving, you need to look at it with a scan tool that can specifically go into the trans computer and see what codes are set. A basic scan tool will not tell you everything even if the CEL is on and there is a trans code you can see with it.

The other first thing to is change the fluid using Honda ATF-DW1. The trans has a drain plug like the engine, you pull it, 3 quarts come out, put it back in and add 3 quarts thru the dipstick hole. You can do that just once, but to do a full service do it twice. Between the 1st and 2nd fluid changes, drive the car briefly on the road or up on a lift. I wouldn’t want to do it with the front up on jackstands unless they are big sturdy ones suitable for a truck and on solid pavement or cement.

So anyway, you will want to use something like a pasta strainer lined with a clean rag to hold over the drain pan so all the fluid goes thru it and it catches any solids. You will want to look carefully to see if any metal came out, and how much blackish clutch dust there is too. There will always be some dust (especially on the drain plug magnet), as clutches are always wearing down. Anyway take a couple pictures of whats there and post them up here if you’re not sure what to think of what’s there. Your ATF can never be too new.

The other thing you can look at is the gaskets for the exterior solenoids. They have fine screens integrated into them to prevent debris from entering the solenoids, so if you have excessive debris in the trans it will also show up here. The dual solenoid looking you right in the face is the best place to start. But make sure you bend the cooler pipes out of the way a little so you can get straight on the 3 little bolts holding it on. DO NOT get careless here and cross thread these bolts. My Accord’s previous owner had done this and I had to use thread repair inserts to fix the holes when I overhauled the trans.

As for the exhaust smoke, please clarify if you are lifting off the gas pedal for the shift change or holding it full throttle during the shift

No problem dude, I appreciate the thank you. So the lift off at high rpm and then smoke is an indication that there is non piston ring issue. Obviously I can’t see the color of the smoke exactly, but the best I can say is this:

Oil smoke is usually off-white greyish with a blue hue kinda like cigarette smoke in the sunlight. Some oils make a darker color, but I’m not expert enough to know what types. If it’s oil smoke it would be coming in around worn valve stem seals, which happens with age, especially if oil maintenance is neglected. It has to get really bad where your smoke attracts too much attention before it “needs” to be fixed, but it’s not a cheap fix.

Super white smoke is actually steam caused by coolant being getting in the cylinders and boiling during combustion. Coolant ‘smoke’ tends to evaporate somewhat when looking in your mirror as opposed to oil smoke that lingers and needs to dissipate before it is less visible. If that’s what it is, it would be coming from a headgasket leak. What’s called a “block test” (like testing the engine block) is a quick way to confirm if there is combustion gasses present in your cooling system, which usually happens if coolant is leaking into cylinder(s) from the headgasket.

You said that you aren’t too mechanically inclined, but if you feel the smoke is probably of the coolant type and want a block test done, you might be able to do it yourself. A “block tester” tool needed to to it is about $60 at NAPA. If that is something of interest, you should look for a video of how to do it. If you can’t find anything useful, I can explain how to do it. A nice mechanic would do it for under $100, maybe way under, although for how easy it is it would be better to see for yourself.

As pointed out be sure to use the Honda transmission fluid. That said, perhaps your problem is engine performance related as well. Just out of curiosity, does your speedometer work? If so, does it work well? If not, this could be the issue. If the computer does not see a good speed signal it won’t know when to shift. It also effects some engine controls that could effect performance. If you have a flashing D4 light or any check engine lights you should diagnose those first. They may be the cause of the issues you’re having. More info on solving problems like this here.

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-transmission-problems

Keep us posted.