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I have a 2000 Grand Prix GT non-supercharged 3800 Series II that won’t crank when turning the key to the start position. The lights don’t even dim so it seems there isn’t power making it to the starter. About a year ago I replaced the ignition key cylinder due to a no-start issue when the car interior would get hot inside during summer. When this problem was happening it would crank crank, start then stall right back out. About 2.5 years ago the GM dealership replaced the ignition switch because the daylight running light and automatic headlights would shut off when turning on the blower climate control. The fuel pump primes up when the key is turned to the on position but, when you turn it to engage the starter nothing happens and even the lights don’t dim. Ignition switch again. I cannot find and replay issue or blow fuses. Neutral start switch? Won’t start in Neutral either. My dad mentioned the shifter feels looser than before and has had this issue before with no crank and he would cycle through gear on the shifter and then it would start. These issue always seem to arise during the warmer season too. The battery is fine and even tried jumping just in case. Thanks for looking.
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CHECK THE STARTER RELAY IN THE FUSE BOX, IF IT HAS ONE. OR AT THE STARTER, CHECK IF 12V IS AT THE STARTER.. THAN CHECK IF YOU HAVE 12V WHEN THE KEY IS IN THE CRANK POSITION. USE 2 PEOPLE FOR THAT. YOU CAN JUMP THE STARTER, USE A PAIR OF NEEDLENOSE PLIERS. YOU MIGHT WANT TO LIFT THE CAR OFF THE GROUND.
Hello,
I wanted to post an update. For a long while now the crank shaft position sensor has been throwing a P0336 Voltage range code. This would cause a intermittent check engine light, more so on hot days and also would cause the tachometer to just stop reading when driving down the road when the code would pop up. When I had to pull the harmonic balance to replace this sensor I notice a lot of oil laying in the engine mount cradle so I went a head and replaced the seal on the crank shaft before installing the sensor and the engine mount was shot so did that too. I also replaced the Neutral Saftey switch thinking that may have something to do with the no crank in start position too. No change. I have narrowed it down to being when its hot outside and if you put the windows down inside the car it will eventually after the interior cools down allow the car to crank and start right up. I replaced the ignition key cylinder about a year or more ago and that seemed to make the issue go away until recently. Its an after market one so the security light has been flashing ever since. I guess from what I read the only way to get the security light off is to have the passlock reset by GM. Also wanted to point out again the ignition switch was also replace probably 3 years ago for other issues.
Because this happens so intermittently and it’s my Dads car that he drives, I never have the tools or the opportunity to trouble shoot this issue when it’s actually occurring. I guess I was hoping someone out there has had this same issue and would be like, “Oh yeah, I had this same issue and this is what I did!” Haha. I know electrical is so hard to diagnose through and online forum.
I am quickly loosing interest in this car. two years ago the overdrive shaft splines so no over drive now, the rocker panels that have already when replaced have rotted back through again. If my dad had money I would talk him into getting another car non-GM. haha
Thanks again for reading my POST!
[quote=”college man” post=103628]see if this helps.
http://www.justanswer.com/car/0jl85-2000-pontiac-grandprix-security-light.html%5B/quote%5D
That’s interesting. I wonder if that might have something to do with it.
Let us know if that works.
Hey everyone! I am excited to let everyone know that I have solved the intermittent no crank issue on my 2000 Grand Prix GT. I really thought it was ether the Pass lock system, body control module or ignition switch. Turns out it was a bad starter all along. The starter some days would allow the car to start right up with out issue and sounded fine So I never thought it was a dead spot in the starter. After having a buddy turn the key to the START position while I touched a test light to the purple ignition feed wire on the starter solenoid I saw I was getting power from the ignition. I tapped the started with a hammer and sure enough the car started to crank and fired up. The new starter is in and the car has been starting every try for two days so far. I also installed a new ignition switch but, only because I broke it trying to clean it when I thought it was my issue. Thanks to a YouTube video I watched I learned not to try and service the ignition switch (too many clips and springs compressed inside). Here are my before and after videos posted below in order so you can see what I did.
Before…
After…
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