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Ok, To start off Ill let you guys know that this truck has been a NIGHTMARE and I really need this thing to turn on so I can get rid of it.
Backstory: I bought this from a Public Auction for a mere $575 mostly original few scratches but clean title. 225k on the clock. Vin 6 meaning it should be a Windsor engine BUT surprise surprise its a Romeo Engine. The truck did not start from the beginning. I have spent somewhere around $1800 all together and I need this thing to turn on so I can sell it.What Ive done so far(new parts):
-After doing a compression test found out that Passenger side Head did not have any compression whatsoever. Bent Valves so got a NEW Head.
(Driver side Head only tested a single cylinder and it showed 125psi and all followers under camshaft were sturdy unlike the passenger side so I assume valves are good)
-All new Sparkplugs
-New Crank Position Sensor
-All new A1Auto Timing kit for Windsor(Chains, Tensioners(plastic ones),Guides, Crank Pulley) later found out that I have a Romeo Engine so I changes Guides to correct ones everything else stayed the same.
-Gasket kit (Timing, Valve Covers, Intake Manifolds, Head)
-New Cylinder Head Bolts
-New PCV valve
-New Alternator
-New Belt & TensionerEverything was put back together and torqued back to spec( or the best that we could since we did all of this work with the Engine inside the vehicle)
I will mention that I Re-Used the harmonic balancer bolt because I just need this to turn on. Torqued to 70lbs and put blue loctite on it just to hold.So on to my problem:
I have put this all back together, all sensors should be plugged in, I reset the Anti-Theft System(just in case) go ahead and Crank the engine over aaaandd… Nothing. I heard an attempt of combustion but absolutely nothing the engine just turn like before(W/ the exception that before it used to backfire from the intake due to bad timing) I am lost at this point..I’ve checked:
-I can smell the fuel going in also one of my injectors squirted out so I had to push it back in.
-Tested PCM and Fuel Pump Relays by jumping them to the battery and ready continuity and they both checked out
-The timing should be correct, I double Checked over and over again. Meditated and also used Ford Cam Position Holding tools.
-The battery is good because I use it to turn on my Explorer that is used daily. Cold Cranking Amps is 575
-Battery leads are goodI think its a electrical problem. I have yet to check spark with a tester. Any way I can check the power circuit all together?
I apologize for the essay but I just wanted to get everything out of the way.. :unsure: :unsure:
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My immediate thought are to finish the compression test and verify spark. Can you hear the fuel pump activate when you crank the engine? New sensor or not, it might be an indicator you don’t have a crank signal.
I just came back from the store with a compression tester and spark tester. Ill be tackling the job tomorrow and will get back to you with an update.
I have not listened to the fuel pump but prior to all the repairs, first time I took out the Sparkplugs they were soaked in fuel from all my attempts to turn on the engine.
Ill have to further inspect the fuel pump after my upcoming tests.
I’d have to say that I am pretty discouraged from working on this vehicle..Your compression numbers might be poor to start with from cylinder wash then. You can try squirting a teaspoon of oil down the cylinders and see if that’ll get the engine to fire. You’ll probably end up squirting some oil anyway just for the compression testing. Make sure you disable the injectors while you’re testing this time around.
[quote=”no_common_sense” post=151686]Your compression numbers might be poor to start with from cylinder wash then. You can try squirting a teaspoon of oil down the cylinders and see if that’ll get the engine to fire. You’ll probably end up squirting some oil anyway just for the compression testing. Make sure you disable the injectors while you’re testing this time around.[/quote]
Compression tested the engine.
Driver side from front to rear I got:
105,80,120,70
Once i got to the passenger side, the engine cranking changed..best way i can explain it is that I could hear the engine cycle and every turn it pushed the compression gauge that much more. Well this time the engine would just turn there was no cycle it would just keep going.
Either way I went ahead and took compression numbers for the first to cylinder on passenger side:
0,0
Remember that the side with the brand new head and thats when I stopped all troubleshooting.All were Wet test so I had already dropped oil in there.
Any guesses?Im looking into buying a new engine. Mine is a 4.6L Romeo non-PI
If I were to buy an engine from a Crown Vic does anyone know what parts id have to transfer over?
If I had to see the diagnosis through as opposed to replacing the engine, I’d be doing a leakdown test next. That’ll give you better direction in finding out why those numbers are all over the place.
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