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So im working on this 5.4 2000 f150 4×4 auto tranny…has 0 heat
THINGS IVE DONE
–TOOK DASH OUT –VENT DOOR WORKS AND HEATER CORE HAS 0 LEAKS
–CHANGED THERMOSTAT
–FLUSHED COMPLETE SYSTEM
STILL NOTHING!!
–REVERSE FLUSHED HEATER CORE W BLEACH WATER AND CLR
–TOPPED UP FLUID
RAN THE TRUCK AT 2500 RPM WITH THE CAP OFF THE FILLER BOTTLE FOR 20 MIN HAD HEAT THEN
THE HEAT REMAINED AT IDLE..
SO I LET IT COOL DOWN–CLEANED THE SHOP ECT
STARTED IT COLD AND NO HEAT AFTER 15 MINS IDLE AND NO HEAT AFTER 15 MIN DRIVINGWHAT DO I DO NOW????
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[quote=”Evil-i” post=175722]What gets me is that you say the heater inlet hose flows coolant when you checked it, but doesn’t get hot.
Makes me think there’s “something” floating around where the inlet hose connects to the engine, and is blocking the flow on an intermittent basis. Does the inlet hose attach to the engine near the thermostat? If the old thermostat fell apart, there could be some pieces swirling around in there.[/quote]
the inlet hose from the bottom of the rad to the bottom of the engine, there is no obstruction i dont think because the truck runs at a normal temp and never overheats
also it has a brand new t stat and o ring.
I mean the narrow inlet hose to the heater core, not the fat rad hose. (Where does the narrow heater inlet hose connect to the engine?) And I meant the old thermostat, not the new one.
Sorry if I wasn’t clear.
[quote=”Evil-i” post=175726]I mean the narrow inlet hose to the heater core, not the fat rad hose. (Where does the narrow heater inlet hose connect to the engine?) And I meant the old thermostat, not the new one.
Sorry if I wasn’t clear.[/quote]
Theres a metal tube on the passenger side on the rear of the engine that the inlet hose connects to..i also started the truck w that hose off and had great flow from that metal tube
If you have great flow out that tube and the rubber tube that connects to it isn’t clogged then that tube should get hot when the engine is at operating temperature.
Just to be clear on what you said before…both tubes that go to the heater core (not the fat radiator hose) are cold when engine is at operating temperature?
[quote=”CrazedAssassin” post=175729]If you have great flow out that tube and the rubber tube that connects to it isn’t clogged then that tube should get hot when the engine is at operating temperature.
Just to be clear on what you said before…both tubes that go to the heater core (not the fat radiator hose) are cold when engine is at operating temperature?[/quote]
at regular running temp the rear hoses to the heater core are not hot.. not even warm
Im starting to think the water pump might be on the way out actully, maybe its not creating enough presure to go through the whole system??
That’s my only thought since we’ve eliminated everything else.
They usually start weeping water out of the holes when they go bad though.[quote=”CrazedAssassin” post=175733]That’s my only thought since we’ve eliminated everything else.
They usually start weeping water out of the holes when they go bad though.[/quote]
so i revved bled and reved the bubbles out got 50 degrees from the vent… the hole time the motor fan on the engine was on… i think it maybe blowing on the motor keeping the lines too kool maybe? i think the clutch fan it shotI’m thinking pump. Need more pressure to force fluid through smaller hoses as the bigger rad hoses are much bigger and easier flow
WITH DETERMINATION AND DIRTY HANDS I BRING TO YOU THE RESULT OF MY STUPIDITY!!
BACK STORY
I INSTALLED AN ENGING I PURCHASED FROM A USED PARTS PLACE IT HAD LOW KMS.. LONG STORY SHORT THE BLOCK HAD PLASTIC CORKS IN EVERY HOLE I HAD TO REMOVE BEFORE INSTALLATION…I FORGOT ONE ON HE RETURN LINE IN THE BACK OF THE BLOCK AND THUS NOT ALLOWING FLUID TO FLOW THROUGH THE HEATER CORE
THE GOOD??
I KNOW NOW ILE HAVE HEAT BECAUSE I REBUILT THE WHOLE SYSTEM…THE BAD?
I FEEL LIKE A COMPLETE DINK!!THANKS ALL FOR THE HELP AND SUJJESTIONS!!
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