- This topic has 10 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 10 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
2000 Honda CR-V w/ 165k – Stalling when coming to a stop
I have thoroughly read what feels like every forum in the universe, and watched all the ETCG videos. I will attempt to list everything that I’ve done to the car in an effort to explain exactly what has gone on up to this point.
I bought the car used. About 25,000 miles ago, the previous owner had a burnt valve fixed by a “Honda Specialist” mechanic shop. They replaced ALOT of stuff. Plugs, wires, valve, machined the head, etc. (I can list it all if you would like, as I have documentation). When I bought the car, it ran great.
Winter came along, and the problems began. Initially it would stall when it was cold outside as soon as you put it in gear. If you let it warm up really well, it was fine. So I started researching, and learned of the valve adjustment issue. I took it to a local shop, they checked the valves, and they were all within spec. It was still stalling, so they cleaned the throttle body and injectors, and checked the compression in all cylinders (all over 160). At this point they said they didn’t know what to do, but that I also had a cracked radiator and gave me a crazy quote. I said I’d do it myself….
At this point I knew nothing about the air in the coolant lines causing idle problems. If I did, replacing the radiator and bleeding the air out of the lines probably would have fixed it. Since I didn’t know at the time, here’s what I did….
I replaced the radiator thinking it was a separate issue. Then I cleaned the IAC and FITv. I pulled the distributor cap and found the points to be corroded, so I replaced the cap, rotor, and plug wires. Also replaced fuel filter just because it was old.
I started the car up, let it warm up until thermostat opened and made sure it was full of coolant. I test drove the car and it ran smoother, ran better overall…. And then stalled at the first stop sign.
Next I replaced the IAC valve. (Still didn’t know about air in coolant lines). Still stalled. So I did more research, and finally found ETCG videos on air in coolant lines. I bled the system with my limited resources (no big yellow funnel), and tons of air came out. It ran great and I thought it was fixed. Then it stalled on my wife a few times both when put in gear, and when stopping.
I ordered one of those awesome funnel/cap systems, and bled the system AGAIN. Barely any air came out, but the car ran pretty good afterwards.
So, here we are today. It’s a warm 60 degrees outside, and it stalled on my wife 7 TIMES, all while stopping (or when letting off the gas when coming up the driveway hill). The car still runs really well under power. I could not find any vacuum leaks.
On cold start, the car high idles well at about 1200 RPMs, or 400-500 when warmed up. I DO NOT have any check engine lights.
Sorry this is so long, but I appreciate the help…. Thanks.
-
Replies
-
My wife’s Honda has a similar problem a couple years back. I cleaned the IAC it and didn’t make a difference, I tried replacing it with one that I got from a junk yard and that didn’t do anything either. I cleaned up the passage for the IAC and it was all gunked up and so was the throttle body. After they were cleaned the stalling issue was gone.
Thanks. The throttle body is already clean, but come to think of it, it’s pretty dumb that I didn’t look at those ports where the IAC meets and clean them out. Did you just run a bunch of throttle body cleaner in there? The space there is pretty cramped.
Also, it’s potentially worth noting that the exhaust smells pretty terrible when letting it warm up. Like the air/fuel mixture is incorrect. And it has an exhaust leak somewhere.
Yeah I used throttle body cleaner for the throttle body and the IAC . For the IAC passage I used a “soft” wire brush to clean it out.
Did you check the exhaust for any restrictions? Something like a clogged catalytic converter could give you idle issues and it could also cause the exhaust smell that you have.
Ok sounds good. I guess I can plan on pulling the IACV, checking those ports, and then bleeding the coolant system again.
The shop I took it to originally pulled the cat and said “they could see light”. They also put some exhaust gasket sealer on the flanges.
It might also be worth while location the exhaust leak you mentioned. I literally just went through this with my 90 Century (I even posted about it on here). I had a leak around the flange and the O2 sensor was right next to the leak causing the O2 sensor to give a faulty reading to the ECM thus creating a performance issue. I fixed the leak and it runs like a champ now.
Given the amount of work that was done, a vacuum leak is not out of the question. Especially if you don’t have a CEL on. I’ve written extensively on solving Honda idle issues that I believe will also apply here. Here’s a link.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-idle-problems
Start with that and see what you come up with. Keep us posted.
Ok, I had a little time the evening to go over the car with the info from the link.
-Verified the Throttle Body is clean
-Used carb cleaner technique to look for vacuum leaks again…no luck
-Pulled all the spark plugs. They’re not bad. They were replaced 25k miles ago. No fuel on plugs.
-Checked the PCV valve. No real change to idle when pinching off PCV vacuum line.A few other things:
Is there a way to test the Coolant Temp Sensor without just replacing it?
Doubt it will help with the diagnosis, but I noticed that putting up the windows (particularly when they are already up) significantly drops the idle (maybe 100 RPMs).
I am wondering if the idle adjust screw was messed with by the shop I took it to BEFORE I replaced the radiator. It looks like it’s been messed with at some point by someone….
Today I removed the IAC valve again. I cleaned the ports where it meets up with the intake really well.
I also replaced the Coolant Temp Sensor. The old one was pretty crappy looking and had gasket sealer all over it, and not just on the threads.
Then I thoroughly bled the coolant system again. From everything I’ve found, the 2000 CRV does NOT have a bleed valve. I was also unable to locate one. If you know otherwise please let me know where it is exactly.
I took the car to a Farmers market afterwards and it drove really well all the way there. The idle did seem a little lower than it should be, but did not stall. On the way back, it stalled 3 times… All when coming to a stop.
Any comment on the idle adjust screw looking like it’s been messed with?
Running out of options. Any more suggestions? Anyone know a good Honda mechanic in the Harrisburg, PA area?
The stalling issue is finally fixed after taking it to a legit mechanic.
Turns out the shop I originally took it to were a bunch of idiots. The valves that they “adjusted to spec” were not even close.
Although it’s running good now, the mechanic I took it to this time said it will be the last time they can be adjusted, and next time I’ll need a new head. Apparently I could get between 10,000-20,000 more miles out of it.. Suggestions?
Yes incompetence and ignorance are the enemy of many a Honda. As for the adjustment, I’m guessing the adjustment screws are all jacked up from not being adjusted properly. It’s not likely you’ll need a new head, just new rockers. That said, valve adjustments are a ‘fine tuning’ item. They valves themselves don’t go out all that much over time. In fact, Honda says only adjust them if they’re noisy. It’s one of those things that if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.
Thanks for the updates and keep us posted if things change.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.