- This topic has 10 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 6 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
Trying to isolate a sound coming from the passenger area. When the steering wheel is turned, there is a periodic pop/clunk type sound. After narrowing down the area with my ears, it appears the noise is coming from the strut to tie rod area. I figure since an outer tie rod is relatively cheap, I’ll go ahead and swap one of those out. The current TRE was replaced two years ago, although it is a cheaper model that doesn’t have a zerk fitting to add grease.
Anyone else familiar with this issue?
What prompted the TRE replacement 2 years ago, was an issue where both INNER tie rod ends’ bushings were completely worn out. No material was left. Caused a terrible shaking at higher speeds, practically like the infamous death wobble most Jeep and 4×4 truck guys are familiar with. I went ahead and replaced CV axles, wheel hubs, inner/outer TRE, stabilizer links and lower control arm with balljoints.
-
Replies
-
I see where you said you replaced the CV axles, but a pop/clunk sound can very often be a CV axle…How long ago was that and we’re they remanufactured? Another possibility is a broken or worn out sway bar link.
All the best…
Karl
Replaced two years ago. They were new.
I saw the sway bar links were dry without grease, so I greased them up, but it is possible the damage is already done I suppose.
I would give those links a good hard look again.. Grab ’em and try to move them up and down, side to side… any movement internally or noise is bad… once the grease gets out…:( you get the picture…
Good luck
Karl
10-4
I prefer the links I can grease, but most for sale seem to not have a zerk fitting. What am I missing here? Companies skimping on zerk fittings cause most people don’t grease the links, or do the non greasable links seem to work better?
I’ve seen crappy ones with zerks and good ones without… However IMHO the best you can get are Moog…
JMHO
Karl.
I’m somewhat partial to Mevotech Supreme’s in this case. Seems like suspension parts are hit or miss these days.
Replace the stabilizer link on the passenger side, where the clunk is heard most prominent. The clunk still exists.
Upon further inspection, the clunk’s main consistency occurs when turning full lock to the right (toward passenger side) then turning the wheel back toward the left (driver side) where there seems to be a dead spot in between the wheels going full lock right and pointed straight. Finding that out, I listened closer to the steering rack while my girlfriend steered right to left, and seems as though the clunk may be emanating from the steering rack itself.
So far the car still runs and drives well, although it can be slippery in the rain.
I don’t know a lot about this model, but the earlier LH cars with a lot of years/miles, the engine cradle to body mounts will deteriorate and become loose.
[quote=”451Mopar” post=167664]I don’t know a lot about this model, but the earlier LH cars with a lot of years/miles, the engine cradle to body mounts will deteriorate and become loose.[/quote]
Would you mind elaborating on that? Because I’ve noticed when I jack up the car by the front “Cradle” the engine tends to lift ever so slightly before I can get the body of the car to lift. I was thinking motor mounts, but I’ve never heard a mount clunk like the sound I hear from the LHS. Motor doesn’t seem to move around much at idle or excess when increasing RPM’s.
There are two big bushing like areas that I’m not familiar with, perhaps the very thing you are talking about, and those do look pretty rough.
I suppose I’d have to drop the cradle to change those though. Not sure the LHS is worth THAT much work if so.
Found this link that might be useful. Also check sway bar bushings.
http://www.lhforums.net/forums/showthread.php?21953-HOW-TO-Replace-Second-Gen-Subframe-Bushings!
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.