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Hi I have a problem with a 2000 Acura Integra LS. It originally started out that the car would get about 20 miles down the road and suddenly die. After it died, it would not start for about 20 to 30 minutes. Then it would start just fine. The computer was throwing codes for the CAT efficiency, so the cat and both O2 sensors were replaced by an exhaust shop. Drive it home, and next day on way to work it dies again. Talk to someone who says it could be ignition control module. I replaced that and it started just fine, but then when you reved it up to about 3500 rpm it would bog out and start missing. this progressively got worse and the RPM it happened at got lower until it was about 1200 RPM and now it just wont start. (it seems to thrash and fire intermittently when you try to start it.)
I have checked the timing and everything is on there. I have spark. I have at least 30 PSI fuel pressure when I just turn the key on a few seconds a couple times. (If I try and crank it over I get around 40) I have checked compression and all cylinders are 175 to 185 PSI compression. I have also tested the crankshaft speed variation sensor as per my Chilton’s manual and it tests good. I have also tried taking the battery cable off and touching them together to make sure the computer is not stuck in limp mode. The OBDC does not appear to have any codes stored in it at this time.
Any thoughts on what this could be would be greatly appreciated.
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did you get any other codes?
so you got 30PSI for fuel pressure, how quickly or slowly did fuel pressure reach that point? i am getting things saying fuel pressure should be 36-43PSI bogging down and missing at higher revs does sound like a fuel starvation issue, when is the last time the fuel filter was replaced how many miles on this vehicle?
also check this out.
No start
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-no-start-problemsperformance and drivability
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issuesAccording to the Chilton manual, you test the fuel pressure by doing the following if it wont start: Install fuel pressure tester and turn the key on for 2 to 3 seconds until fuel pump quits. Turn key off and back on once more until fuel pump quits.
After the second time I turned the key is when I had 30 PSI
I’m with 13aceofspades13.
Look at replacing the fuel filter if you haven’t done so.
As I have experienced, when the fuel filter was found to be the problem, the symptoms you listed are right on.I want you to check and see if you have spark and injector pulse RIGHT after the car dies and won’t fire. Run it in your driveway till it gets hot enough and dies. Immediately after that see if you have spark and injector pulse, if not. Replace the crank sensor.
I also agree with ace, your pressure is wayyyyy to low. I don’t remember spec, but i like to see it at least 45-55 ish
[quote=”Brink5″ post=104412]I’m with 13aceofspades13.
Look at replacing the fuel filter if you haven’t done so.
As I have experienced, when the fuel filter was found to be the problem, the symptoms you listed are right on.[/quote]This vehicles fuel filter is considered ‘lifetime’ and does not require replacement. In addition, Honda fuel delivery problems are rare.
I would suggest you check the ignition switch. It’s a common problem on Hondas of that vintage and causes the exact symptoms you describe.
Additional information here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-no-start-problems
Good luck and keep us posted on what you find.
[quote=”ShopTech” post=104766]We don’t know what needs to be replaced yet….you need to diagnose instead of throwing parts at it.[/quote]
this, diagnose first, replace parts later, don’t waste your money on a ignition switch until you are sure that is the issue, follow erics advice too the tea, he is literally a honda expert.
[quote=”sstansbery” post=104714]Well — I had all ready replaced the fuel filter before the last reply, but it had no effect. I would like to try the electrical portion of the ignition, but one store wanted $250 for what they said was an ignition module. to verify, this is similar to the part I need correct?[/quote]
This is not how we do repairs. You check, verify, diagnose, and THEN head to the parts store. If you want to throw parts at it, have fun. When you find one that works let us know. Outside of that, I’d recommend you follow the steps that we have laid out for you here. We’d love to help but if you ignore our advice there is little we can do.
Good luck.
Your video on diagnosing the ignition switch seems to be based on starting the car and wiggling the key. How does that do me any good? The car don’t start. I had tested the fuel pressure and posted it. I replaced the filter on the advice of someone here before you replied because I had one the swap it with because they thought the pressure was low.
Thanks for the help anyway
Besides that — you are about 2 or 3 posts behind in the thread with your quote, which is right before I posted that I would just go back to the manuals for some actual tests to diagnose the switch
If you watch the video the first thing I say is that if you’re experiencing a start stall condition is to try and hold the key in the run position to see if it stays running. Have you tried this?
And yes, I did read the other posts but what’s at issue here is that I don’t think you’ve been reading mine.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=104995]If you watch the video the first thing I say is that if you’re experiencing a start stall condition is to try and hold the key in the run position to see if it stays [b]running.[/b] Have you tried this?
[/quote][quote=”sstansbery” post=104780]If it wont start, I cant use his video to diagnose it. So I guess I will go look in the manuals.[/quote]
[quote=”sstansbery” post=104066] now it just wont start. (it seems to thrash and fire intermittently when you try to start it.)
I have checked the timing and everything is on there. I have spark. I have at least 30 PSI fuel pressure when I just turn the key on a few seconds a couple times. (If I try and crank it over I get around 40) I have checked compression and all cylinders are 175 to 185 PSI compression. I have also tested the crankshaft speed variation sensor as per my Chilton’s manual and it tests good. I have also tried taking the battery cable off and touching them together to make sure the computer is not stuck in limp mode. The OBDC does not appear to have any codes stored in it at this time.
Any thoughts on what this could be would be greatly appreciated.[/quote]
[quote=”sstansbery” post=104324][b]it wont start:
[/b]After the second time I turned the key is when I had 30 PSI[/quote][quote=”sstansbery” post=104962]Your video on diagnosing the ignition switch seems to be based on starting the car and wiggling the key.[b] How does that do me any good? The car don’t start.
[/b][/quote][quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=104995]And yes, I did read the other posts but what’s at issue here is that I don’t think you’ve been reading mine.[/quote]
OK, Really??? I must be missing something here. How do I get a car that “WONT START” actually “RUNNING”, so I can wiggle the key and see if it stays “RUNNING”??? Please give me that knowledge! The video does say it can solve no start problems too, but it doesn’t offer a way to diagnose that… which is what I was going to go to the manuals for…
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