- This topic has 8 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 13 years, 1 month ago by
.
-
Topic
-
Hey all. I recently acquired a 99 RAV4 with the 2.0 auto. I promised my moms I would follow all the factory services since she cut me a deal on the car. I know at 150k, I have to do an oil change, and flush the coolant. I’m curious if anyone with access to service info has the procedure for the coolant flush, ‘cuz I haven’t looked to see if it has a bleeder valve, etc. Also, it has a tiny bit of valve clatter. If you might also provide the specs for a valve adjustment, I would love you long time. Thanks in advance guys.
-
Replies
-
Here you go!
REPLACEMENT
- DRAIN ENGINE COOLANT
-
-
[li]Remove the radiator cap.
[/li]
CAUTION: To avoid the danger of being burned, do not remove the radiator cap while the engine and radiator are still hot, as fluid and steam can be blown out under pressure.
-
-
[li]Loosen the radiator drain plug (on the left side of the radiator lower tank) and engine drain plug (on the left rear of the cylinder block), and drain the coolant.
- Close the drain plugs. Torque:
[/li]
Engine drain plug: 25 Nm (250 kgf.cm, 18 ft. lbs.)
- FILL ENGINE COOLANT
-
-
[li]Slowly fill the system with coolant.
[/li]
-
[ul]
[li]Use a good brand of ethylene-glycol base coolant and mix it according to the manufacture’s directions. - Using coolant which includes more than 50% ethylene-glycol (but not more than 70%) is recommended.
[/li][/ul]
NOTICE:- Do not use an alcohol type coolant.
- The coolant should be mixed with demineralized water or distilled water.
Capacity (w/ Heater):
M/T: 8.0 liters (8.5 US qts., 7.0 Imp. qts.)
A/T: 7.7 liters (8.1 US qts., 6.8 Imp. qts.)-
-
[li]Install radiator cap.
- Start the engine, and bleed the cooling system.
- Refill the radiator reservoir with coolant until it reaches the “FULL” line.
[/li]
- CHECK ENGINE COOLANT FOR LEAKS
Thanks guys for the info. It’s exactly what I needed. To be honest, I haven’t had time to look into the specifics of the engine on this car, as I have only had it for a month, and haven’t had to do anything to it yet. The clatter is very light, so I don’t feel as though it’s damaging, I was just curious if there was a procedure more than anything. Thanks again all! Also, after watching Eric use it several times, I purchased the spill-free funnel, and it’s awesome!
Yeah i need to invest in one of those too. I think i saw them at Amazon when i was ordering some tools from there last month.
If you do some maintenance on that particular vehicle, make some ‘How To..’ for the maintenance section of the forums just incase theres less experienced people here who would be interested in doing the basics and saving money.
Hi Beefy,
I don’t know if there are are bleeder screws for the coolant system. If the radiator or overflow tank has a pressurized cap, usually you can leave that off while running the vehicle to get rid of any air in the system. Once coolant is flowing through the entire system, the radiator or pressurized overflow tank can be capped.
Check out the Chilton database at elibrary.mel.org. Select “MeL Databses” at the top. Scroll down until you get to ChiltonLibrary.com. After selecting that, enter login: C4535896486 Enter your year, make, model, and then select “Engine Mechanical”. Afterwards, select “Specifications” , and then select “Valve Specifications”. Good luck and keep us posted.
I’m not much of a fan of ‘flushing’ a cooling system that is otherwise working normally, sure if you have issues with sedement or something like that a flush would be waranted however if you have a normal system I think a drain and refill at given intervals is the way to go. As for the service procedures looks like BigC has it covered, thanks man.
The lash is most definitely adjustable and you shouldn’t need shims (see below for the how to)
INSPECTIONHINT: Inspect and adjust the valve clearance when the engine is cold.
- DISCONNECT PS RESERVOIR
- REMOVE CYLINDER HEAD COVER
-
-
[li]Disconnect these cables and hoses:
[/li]
-
[ul]
[li]Accelerator cable from throttle body - Accelerator cable from clamp on intake manifold
- Accelerator cable from clamp on generator bracket
- A/T throttle control cable from throttle body
- Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hose from air cleaner hose
- PCV hose from intake manifold
[/li][/ul]
- Remove the 2 bolts, and disconnect the accelerator cable bracket from the intake manifold.
[/li]
-
-
[li]Disconnect the engine wire protector from the 2 mounting bolts of the No.2 timing belt cover in the sequence shown.
[/li]
-
-
[li]Remove the 4 nuts, grommets, cylinder head cover and gasket.
[/li]
HINT: Arrange the grommets in the correct order, so that they can be reinstalled into their original positions. This minimizes any possibility of oil leakage due to reuse of the grommets in different positions.
- SET NO.1 CYLINDER TO TDC/COMPRESSION
[ul]
- [ol]
[li]Turn the crankshaft pulley and align its groove with timing mark “0” of the No.1 timing belt cover.[li]Check that the valve lifters on the No.1 cylinder are loose and valve lifters on the No.4 are tight. If not, turn the crankshaft 1 revolution (360
Ok, well, I more than thank you for the info jacob. I suspected it would be something crazy like this. I need some time to figure out how to print this out, and look into the special tools (of course). But again, thanks bud! As intimidating as this job looks, I’m still going to do it. Luckily, i have some solid backup in case I mess something up.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.