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Hey guys. I have a couple quick questions. I’m going to be working on my teacher’s daughter’s car; she needs a new oil pan because those quick lube places stripped the threads of where the drain plug goes. I haven’t really gotten much info yet, except for the fact that the car is a 1999 civic sedan. I looked it up and civics those years came with a few different engines. I’m pretty sure it is a d16 motor but wanted to verify whether or not its a d16y7 or a d16y8 motor? I’m assuming one has vtec and the other doesn’t, and i’m guessing their oil pans are different as well. The daughter cant tell when i asked her to look underneath the hood for the engine code.
My other question is how to replace the pan. I’ve looked up procedures and it seems simple enough just like any other oil/transmission pan. But when i searched it on Chiltons Online, it said the exhaust needs to be unbolted and out of the way to get the oil pan off. I looked it up on Mitchell (almost like AllData) and it didn’t say anything about moving the exhaust. I was wondering if anyone did the job on this particular model can give me some insight and verify whether or not its necessary to undo the exhaust so i know ahead of time to order extra gaskets or not. Any advice/help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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As far as I can tell, all the oil pans are the same. It doesn’t matter if the engine has VTEC or not. They’re super easy to remove. You’ll need a few sockets (10mm, 12mm, 14mm and 17mm), some socket extensions, an appropriately sized ratchet, a drain pan, probably a breaker bar for the exhaust bolts, a rubber mallet, a gasket scraper and possibly a small prybar. Penetrating oil for the exhaust bolts may be a good idea as well. I think you’ll also need a small amount of silicone sealant. Here’s how it’s done.
After you get the car supported safely on jackstands, drain the oil. You do have to drop the exhaust. Remove the fasteners connecting the pipe that runs under the oil pan to the manifold as well as the fastener attaching the pipe to the subframe behind the engine. You can now just let the exhaust hang and proceed with removing the fasteners on the transmission inspection plate, as well as the bracket that attaches the engine and transmission together. Once those two pieces are out of the way, go ahead and remove all the fasteners holding the oil pan to the bottom of the block. With any luck, the oil pan will now just slide down so you can replace it. Often as not though, you’ll need to persuaed the pan to let go using the mallet and maybe the prybar. Be careful with the prybar so you don’t damage the gasket sealing surface. Clean everything up real good, apply silicone sealant at the places where the factory placed it. Those places will be obvious, as you’ll be able to see the silicone. Installation is the reverse of removal. I would recommend painting the new oil pan a light color if it’s the steel pan, as a light color (such as gray primer), will show oil leaks that will be hidden on a black pan. Hope this helps.
Before replacing the pan you might want to try repairing the threads ( save you a lot of time if you can ) also , eric has a video posted regarding using a longer bolt that will catch cleaner non damaged threads ( just check his video section )
This is the video DioFan was talking about, but I’m not sure the Civic has an aluminum pan like the one shown here for the Legend – I thought the Civics use a steel pan – so, I’m not sure this will work. They do make oil pan thread repair kits.
If the engine has an aluminum pan try this first. Someone posted in the comments on that video about a Mercedes drain bolt working for this without any modifications.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaNls0uuOUs
If it’s a steal pan then it should be replaced and as you say it’s not that difficult, dropping the exhaust helps a great deal and in fact you’ll have to do that to get the old pan out and the new one in.
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